Compared to its Guanaja stablemate in the Grand Cru line this one will seem passive and withdrawn but it remains superb chocolate. This is the quiet one of the Grands Crus – a chocolate that does its job effectively and efficiently without being spectacular or attracting unusual attention. Here is a chocolate one might forget easily yet deserves not to be forgotten or ignored.

The chocolate has all the perfection of the Valrhona finish in appearance, a medium-brown colour, high-gloss bar with no traces of mould defects, rippling, or unevenness. Aroma isn’t particularly strong, mostly molasses, with perhaps a suggestion of grass or of something else vegetal. No revelations here.

Flavour is very woody, overall, not in a negative, flat or harsh way but rather a mellow taste a bit like mahogany, with a faint tropical fruitiness. Near the end, however, the woody flavour becomes very sharp, quite bitter and tannic, yet somehow the bitterness in this case seems more of an area of flavour interest than a negative. It’s been well-modulated so that with the woody cast, it fits and maintains the flavour impression. Nothing here, moreover, ever really reaches white-hot intensity, perhaps because of the extra sweetness of the 66% blend. It’s an effective way of presenting what can easily turn into an overaggressive flavour.

Texture is exemplary, typical for Valrhona, ultra-smooth and creamy. Next to its kin from Valrhona that might correspond to average – i.e. “”merely”" very good indeed rather than sensual, but that should not at all imply a flawed result. Indeed, that seems to summarise the bar as a whole – it doesn’t necessarily have an air of extreme indulgence – no “”wow”" factor here, but that doesn’t detract from its flavour, it’s merely a way of saying that its a fine chocolate whose personality happens to be retiring rather than showy.

Perfect looking chocolate with a fine aroma with hints of candied orange. Delightful smoky vanilla flavour with delicate fruit – lighter than berries and not quite citrus. Shades of cappucino as the flavour develops. Good length, if a little bitter.

A good chocolate, but overall seems quite bitter in the length for its percentage compared to some stronger chocolates. Still a classic, and great to cook with.