A real connoisseurs chocolate with interesting developing flavours. Good job you don’t need much to appreciate this bar, given the price!


Reviews

Hans-Peter Rot: 21-Oct-2006

Posted: October 21, 2006 by
SCORES Score/10 Weight
Aroma: 8 10%
Look/snap: 9 5%
Taste: 8.5 35%
Melt: 9 5%
Length: 8.5 15%
Opinion: 8.5 30%
Total/100: 85 100%
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The outer appearance is simply wonderful, artfully crafted and presented in the most attractive fashion, speaking stylishly of the flavors contained within. And this is just the packaging. Removing the bar reveals an equally stunning appearance only afflicted by minor swirling. The light brown-magenta color reflects the Porcelana genetics beautifully, while everything else suggests Amedei gave this bar top priority in the mold. Aroma isn’t a world beater, though. It’s fairly simple, giving off strawberries in the background but lots of raisin and wood in the forefront, which suggests a more aggressive approach than normally given to this fragile cacao. Definitely a typical scheme for Amedei, but for Porcelana, not so much since its character here is explained by the roast than the bean itself.

Considering the bean constituency, the chocolate is more aggressive than expected. It’s decisively dark and black in nature, suggesting currants and figs but then the profile softens as cream and a neutral chocolatiness assume control, which when combined form a ganache-like character that glides through henceforth. This component is classic Porcelana, but the fruitiness is somewhat of a departure, clearly caramelized and a result of Amedei’s standards. Texture is Amedei’s best performance, but the exclusion of lecithin has dramatically thickened the consistency, emphasizing the darker nature of the chocolate.

A little unexciting and somewhat ordinary, the chocolate comes off as one-dimensional and perhaps too dark as Porcelana’s high notes seem to have been washed away. Perhaps processing standards have changed, or maybe the bean constituency is too variable to yield consistent flavors. Whatever the reason, it is clear that Amedei has opted for something darker and more full-bodied for a cacao that doesn’t need this sort of treatment. In fact, this chocolate is more representative of Amedei’s stylistic leaning rather than the beans comprising it, but overall it’s a good effort, definitely worth the price for trying.

Alex Rast: 6-Oct-2005

Posted: October 6, 2005 by
SCORES Score/10 Weight
Aroma: 8 10%
Look/snap: 9 5%
Taste: 8.5 35%
Melt: 9 5%
Length: 8.5 15%
Opinion: 8.5 30%
Total/100: 85 100%
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At the top of Amedei’s price list but not at the top of their form – a very good chocolate, but a hair short of perfection. Amedei’s treatment of this very trendy bean is a bit heavy-handed, and the result is a chocolate with exceptional classic flavour but no really standout characteristics.

Amedei’s packaging for this bar and its stablemate Chuao is the the reference standard for the industry on how to package chocolate. It’s visually exciting and a perfect cocoon for the chocolate, whose appearance itself excites visually as well. Colour is a darker brown – there might be a touch of red in there but it’s mostly pretty neutral, with a slick glossy surface. No mould marks are apparent either – all in all, it’s a nicely finished bar.

Aroma isn’t electrifying but it’s reasonably pleasant, a dark tone with a lot of coffee and woody suggestions. There’s little complexity, just a pure basic essence. The flavour initially is quite sharp, although not particularly intense, a sour, blackcurrant twang. Soon very centre-point chocolatey and vanilla components begin to dominate, which in themselves represent the ideal chocolate taste, yet here are somehow a little ordinary and unexciting. Finish is smooth and hazelnutty, almost like gianduja.

Texture is one of this bar’s strong points. It’s the best of Amedei’s textural efforts, super-smooth, super-creamy, missing the ever-so-slightly dusty texture of most of its stablemates. It sort of overwhelms the flavour, which good basic chocolate taste though it is, leaves one wishing more. At issue appears to be a minor overroasting – nothing critical but Amedei has yanked out the high notes, so that overall it’s a bar that tastes more like a commendable ordinary blend than a prized and special varietal.

Martin Christy: 7-Jun-2002

Posted: June 7, 2002 by
SCORES Score/10 Weight
Aroma: 9.5 10%
Look/snap: 9 5%
Taste: 9 35%
Melt: 8 5%
Length: 9 15%
Opinion: 9 30%
Total/100: 90 100%
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Rating: 10.0/10 (1 vote cast)

Beautiful looking chocolate (though on breaking some bubbling was found), with a fine aroma of red wine. Fantastic tangy flavour, that evolves through wine and blue cheese to almost too sharp citrus – a real journey! Some ‘bits’ found marred an otherwise smooth texture. Length is also sharp at the beginning, but soon settles down to leave you satisfied after only a small piece. These artisan, hand numbered bars are a connoisseurs delight – that’s if you don’t mind the equally fine price!



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