One of the wonders of the new age of varietal and origin chocolate we live in is the exploration of different styles and techniques of making chocolate. Personally, I embrace this and enjoy both the very fine, traditional French methods used by companies such as Valrhona or Michel Cluizel, as well as the more varied approaches of say, Scharffen Berger or Vintage Plantations.
Another case in point would be Domori. Their concept of minimal processing – as part of their ‘low impact’ philosophy of changing the original beans as little as possible – produces a texture that is either ‘creamy’ or ‘waxy’, depending on whether you love it or loathe it. And in my experience there seems to be a split along these lines among professionals, while consumers generally seem more receptive.
I am on the ‘cream’ side of this divide of course, and while I can understand criticisms about occasional ‘off’ beans affecting flavour, I feel this is an acceptable consequence of Domori’s vision, and worth living with to enjoy the flavour of some very good beans, little changed by the production process.
Above all – and even when flaws may be present (like the notes of ‘diesel’ some forum members have reported in Domori Porcelana!) – I find a ‘magic moment’ in much of Domori’s chocolate, a thrill of pleasure that is both quintessentially chocolatey and mysteriously inexplicable. In fact, I actually get a distinct buzz that I just haven’t found from any other chocolate I’ve tried, a thrill beyond flavour that always puts a smile on my face, and for me makes Domori one of the most desirable of chocolates.