Reviews

May 28, 2005
 

Valrhona – Palmira 2004 – review – Anne Bramley

More articles by »
Written by: annebramley

Valrhona’s Palmira shows off its delicious Venezualan criollo composition in a lighter color and the occasional bubble often found in this rarer chocolate variety. But it is the slightly sandy texture that truly reveals this as a signature criollo.

At first the aroma seems quite straightforward: a warm cup of milky cocoa. But you wonder if this is just the power of suggestion, that you expect a more milk chocolate scent and taste in a criollo bar. Indeed, this is a much more playful bar. Looking more closely, rather than having to actively detect a series of complex tastes under that overarching milk chocolate scent, each bite revealed a new taste growing from tobacco to Port to a strong climax of toasted almonds. Absent, however, are any citrus or plant notes. Until the bite is all but gone and you’re left with a lingering apple essence.

Though perhaps this bar didn’t live up to all the expectations placed on it as Valrhona sought a replacement to its Chuao, it is another to certainly be placed in the category of bars to interest those who are perhaps wary of high cocoa butter bars and need the gentler tones of criollo to persuade them to come over to the dark side.



About the Author

annebramley




 
 

 
ChocolateTreeMadagascarraw7090gcropped

The Chocolate Tree – Madagascar Raw 70%

The Chocolate Tree ventures boldly into territory formerly almost the exclusive domain of Pacari with a raw chocolate that one has reason to believe may be classified as “fine”. It’s even more refreshing to se...
by Alex Rast
2

 
 
Askinosie Del Tambo Ecuador 70pc & nibs enrobed Cru Sauvage Bolivia Felchlin

Directly Traded collection from Geert Vercruysse

Belgian chocolatier Geert Vercruysse creates a unique collection of ganaches using directly traded chocolate, just in time for the birth of new industry organisation, Direct Cacao.
by Martin Christy
1

 
 
Ecuador8290g_cropped

The Chocolate Tree – Ecuador 82%

Scotland joins the club of bean-to-bar countries with this (and other) chocolates from interesting micro-producer The Chocolate Tree in Edinburgh. This is a new experiment for a company previously involved in confectionery and ...
by Alex Rast
3

 

 
chuno-db_scaled

Friis-Holm – Chuno Double Turned

The other half of the Chuno pair from Friis-Holm, which plays the very interesting game of asking by way of practical experimentation what differences in fermentation might do. Like the Triple Turned, this explores an entirely ...
by Alex Rast
1

 
Seventy% supports the International Chocolate Awards
 
RedStarOcumare72

Red Star Chocolate – Ocumare 72%

After a long hiatus, during which Red Star was apparently tinkering with their process, Duffy returns with a revised Ocumare dark. A well-known but highly-reputed origin is an obvious place to start after process changes, and t...
by Alex Rast
0

 




Latest reviews

  1. The Chocolate Tree – Madagascar Raw 70% Alex Rast, 15 Jun 2013
  2. The Chocolate Tree – Ecuador 82% Alex Rast, 14 Dec 2012
  3. Friis-Holm – Chuno Double Turned Alex Rast, 3 Dec 2012
  4. Friis-Holm – Chuno Triple Turned Alex Rast, 18 Nov 2012
  5. Chapon – Chuao Alex Rast, 18 Nov 2012

@Seventypercent Twitter feed

Search site