Marcolini rough handled

I was just in London’s Selfridges, in the much improved Food Hall. With the Confectionary department just next door of course I popped in to check out what’s been the buyers’ fancy this month. It’s an ever variable and ever changing mix of good chocolate, bad chocolate, bad chocolate with pretensions and coloured in candy at Selfridges – many a fine chocolate brand has graced the Selfridges shelves, from Scharffen Berger to Weiss to Chocovic, only to disappear by the next visit in an ever-changing carousel. The only fixed point being the ever present Valrhona stand. (Along with the mass-market Godiva and Leonidas concessions.)

Last time I visited the selection was pretty poor, almost a desert. Now it’s a little better, including moulded couverture bars from Chococo and James (‘hand made’ – now what exactly does that mean?) The Venchi stand though is replaced by a Marcolini stall, or more like a market stall I should say. Disappointing to find Marcolini’s elegantly packaged top notch products so roughly treated – marked boxes, chalk dust and disorder everywhere. Most unappealing. The temperature wasn’t so conducive to a fresh product either. I wonder how long Marcolini will last on the floors of Oxford Street’s finest?

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