A very one-sided chocolate, but Amedei has somehow gotten it to work. If you want a demonstration of how to produce a good, imbalanced chocolate, this would be it. Incredibly fruity, almost a pure “red” chocolate, one gets the feeling that this is what Valrhona and Scharffen Berger have aspired to create but never quite managed. Amedei has succeeded here on a bold, decidedly alternative course.
Alex Rast: 29-Oct-2005
As do the other varietals, this one comes only in a very difficult 5g square format, and adding insult to injury it’s in an assortment box, without enough of its type per box. Amedei should really package its varietals in the perfect format that the Chuao, Porcelana, and 9 bars have – the 50g box that is the textbook example of ideal packaging. Once you get past this detail, the chocolate looks pretty good, slightly reddish and without noticeable imperfections, although in a square this small it’s hard to note much.
The aroma is archetypal Trinitario. A woody overall theme dominates, with cedar standing out particularly. Tobacco, the other keynote of Trinidad, is present in abundance. There’s also a trace of coffee, implying something of a dark roast, an appropriate choice for the varietal.
However, the flavour explodes all notions of typical Trinitario. It’s just an immersion in raspberries, that tart red fruitiness taking control with complete authority. Needless to say, with acidity this strong, bitterness is not an issue, and the only unresolved detail is some tobacco and vanilla traces floating around rather desperately on the sea of raspberry. This is as one-dimensional as it gets, and yet it manages to be pleasant, stimulating, refreshing, not jarring.
Texturally it’s where most Amedeis are: good, not great. Above average in smoothness and creaminess, probably. Superb, not. That’s not what you’ll remember. Instead it will be that sensation of diving into a field of raspberries, like a sunny July day with all the berries at their peak of freshness and screaming to be eaten right off the bush. Amedei has in Trinidad accomplished the reference standard for a pure fruity chocolate.