International Chocolate Awards

Reviews

October 8, 2005
 

Bonnat – Java Chocolat au Lait 65% – review – Hans-Peter Rot

More articles by »
Written by: Hans-Peter Rot

Java looks particularly impressive out of the wrapper–better than many of Bonnat’s bars–bearing a lovely gloss and lack of molding imperfections even if the bar looks sterile and plain by virtue of no decorative scoring. The color is exceedingly light considering the 65% constituency of the bar, resembling pine, but whatever concerns were evoked here are partially reinforced by the aroma. It’s powerful and strong, with upfront notes of leather and tobacco but not without a strong milky body to remind us of the bar’s position. At 65%, though, could Bonnat have done something to mollify this?

The addition of milk is present in obvious attire, but it quickly disappears as an actual note and becomes noticeable in its softening effects on the flavor. Smoke and leather loom overheard but gracefully so and never in aggressive bouts like in Asfarth. There seems to be control and stateliness here, a better balance among the chocolate’s components. Meanwhile, mild citrus notes are in the background but the acidity eventually accumulates and emphasizes the citrus, conveying an overall sensation akin to lemon flavored chocolate mousse, with an especially satisfying chocolaty finish.

Something about the texture heightens this experience—probably its smooth consistency that melts like solidified cream, and the remarkably cool effect that chocolate always incurs on the mouth certainly plays a role, too. Simply put, Java is a refreshing and delightful chocolate that isn’t too heavy or assertive both in flavor and in texture. The chocolate as a whole just seems elegant and is essentially a joy to taste. Admittedly, though, intensity at this level would be ideal but the balance displayed here is much more obvious and provides no contrast of milk versus cacao like Asfarth. Smoky cacao is still a noticeable ingredient, but one that seems less brusque and perhaps more acceptable due to the gentile nature of the chocolate. If you’re looking to experiment with milk and smoke, then this is the bar to try.



About the Author

Hans-Peter Rot




 
 

 
ChocolateTreeMadagascarraw7090gcropped

The Chocolate Tree – Madagascar Raw 70%

The Chocolate Tree ventures boldly into territory formerly almost the exclusive domain of Pacari with a raw chocolate that one has reason to believe may be classified as “fine”. It’s even more refreshing to se...
by Alex Rast
2

 
 
Askinosie Del Tambo Ecuador 70pc & nibs enrobed Cru Sauvage Bolivia Felchlin

Directly Traded collection from Geert Vercruysse

Belgian chocolatier Geert Vercruysse creates a unique collection of ganaches using directly traded chocolate, just in time for the birth of new industry organisation, Direct Cacao.
by Martin Christy
1

 
 
Ecuador8290g_cropped

The Chocolate Tree – Ecuador 82%

Scotland joins the club of bean-to-bar countries with this (and other) chocolates from interesting micro-producer The Chocolate Tree in Edinburgh. This is a new experiment for a company previously involved in confectionery and ...
by Alex Rast
3

 

 
chuno-db_scaled

Friis-Holm – Chuno Double Turned

The other half of the Chuno pair from Friis-Holm, which plays the very interesting game of asking by way of practical experimentation what differences in fermentation might do. Like the Triple Turned, this explores an entirely ...
by Alex Rast
1

 
Seventy% supports the International Chocolate Awards
 
D7K_9643

Slow Chocolate: taste workshop – 28 January 2013

£100 per person, 11.00am-4.30pm, Monday 28 Jan 2013 9 Adam Street, London WC2N 6AA Day course – A workshop of the senses Our six hour day course is suitable for beginners and connoisseurs alike. Using fun and engaging ga...
by Seventy%
1

 




Latest reviews

  1. The Chocolate Tree – Madagascar Raw 70% Alex Rast, 15 Jun 2013
  2. The Chocolate Tree – Ecuador 82% Alex Rast, 14 Dec 2012
  3. Friis-Holm – Chuno Double Turned Alex Rast, 3 Dec 2012
  4. Friis-Holm – Chuno Triple Turned Alex Rast, 18 Nov 2012
  5. Chapon – Chuao Alex Rast, 18 Nov 2012

@Seventypercent Twitter feed

Search site