Guittard – Ambanja – review – Alex Rast

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Written by: Alex Rast

Like the rest of the Guittard origin line, the finish on this bar is exemplary. It’s almost shimmering in its shininess, and of an appealing light-brown colour, which on first glance might be mistaken for a milk chocolate. Aroma is both prominent and complex, with a cherry and prune forwardness, underlain with cloves and with a vanilla note that emerges only after a time. It doesn’t have the pungency of Domori but it’s getting there.

The flavour opens with a blueberry explosion, reminiscent of Chuao but which soon changes to entirely different with that spicy body the aroma revealed, now more allspice in its composition. The finish then shifts into an earthy and cocoa tone, which makes for a complex progression very much like the aroma. The flavours don’t quite harmonise perfectly, but they don’t really clash, either, so it’s a chocolate that stays very edible.

Guittard definitely improves over their classic texture here, making a bar that is very smooth and creamy, a welcome change even if the reasons for it aren’t completely clear. What does seem clear, however, is that Guittard has tuned this bar for versatility – with so many flavours going on, flavours that won’t immediately be wiped out by baking or dilution but which don’t clash, you can combine the chocolate fearlessly with many other things, and end up with a good result. It’s a chocolate that manages a very good tradeoff between all-around versatility and individualistic character.

About the Author

Alex Rast

Alex Rast is a long-time chocolate experimenter, taster and part-time consultant to chocolate companies. Starting in 1990 with early experiments himself in making chocolate, he quickly moved into evaluating chocolates in commercial production and assisting other companies in improving process. Over the course of many years he has evaluated over 700 distinct chocolate bars. He is one of the earliest reviewers for SeventyPercent and has helped to define and systematise the ratings system. In addition to bar chocolate, he also experiments with chocolate baking and the formulation of "canonical" recipes for classic chocolate items.