Guittard makes this bar a candid reflection of its packaging. With a decisively red-brown scheme, the color is indeed quite appropriate, while the temper and finish further convey a look of refinement and sophistication initiated by the packaging. The aroma, however, seems less elegant and almost on the verge of nonexistence in terms of complexity. Ordinarily this is not a concern, but Sur del Lago has more interest than this. The overall scent is creamy like ganache, but a darker current cuts through, conveying molasses or even coffee, but the power behind this is dead. With such a limited and lifeless fare, can the flavor excel?

In some ways, yes. It starts off rather timidly but then picks up as a creamy wave and moderately strong chocolate intensity kicks in, which for a cacao that’s usually stronger seems uncharacteristically low and repressed. Strawberry then accompanies the cream, while a cocoa wafer-like spike makes for a very unusual and “manufactured” midpoint. Floral notes then take over, but overall the chocolate seems soft and feminine, definitely not bold or strapping like many Sur del Lagos tend to be, a notion that is further supported an ongoing lack of intensity.

Texture is dusty and dry; it’s not wholly smooth or creamy, which for such a delicate and subdued flavor is certainly a detriment, making for a drastic and undesirable contrast. Although Guittard has captured many of Sur del Lago’s typical flavors it has also lost hold of the crucial chocolatiness to bring them to the foreground. Here we have a chocolate that plays cat and mouse with us, constantly eluding prying tongues and thus offering only lows that make the bar seem flat and unexciting.

This is a gorgeous bar to look at – red-brown, almost brick, with a high-gloss finish, and virtually perfect moulding – no ripples, bubbles, or any other imperfections to be spotted. Aroma is strong, if perhaps unsubtle, starting immediately with an aggressive dark coffee and cocoa punch, then introducing deep raisin and currant body, very much a dark impression. It’s good but, with this type of bean, might this mean overroasting?

The flavour is immediately recognisable and demonstrates that overroasting fears were unfounded. Immediately there is the signature cherry and strawberry fruitiness, and the classic cream component that reveals Sur del Lago genetics. A floral flavour also emerges, not out of keeping with the bean but nonetheless a pleasant twist. There’s a lightness to the flavour that really stands out and counterpoints the dark, heavy aroma. As for the texture, it’s slightly dusty, and the bar is a bit dry and splintery, suggesting possibly that more cocoa butter would be a good thing. A little less sugar, it would also seem, might help so perhaps upping the percentage to 70% could tune it to perfection.

However, the flavour is on the whole just a bit to typical, too predictable, a chocolate that doesn’t set itself apart enough from its peers. Guittard might work on making it more distinctive, perhaps by tweaking the ferment and roast. It’s not a bad chocolate – indeed, it’s a good one. Yet compared to its stablemates it lacks that spark of greatness – something to make it stand up and get noticed. Certainly it’s worthwhile trying but perhaps no more than once.