10 years of Seventy%

Reviews

November 23, 2005
 

Scharffen Berger – Cuyagua – review – Hans-Peter Rot

More articles by »
Written by: Hans-Peter Rot

Scharffen Berger’s triangular molding adds even more flair to an origin not often attempted. Temper and mold look great, showing the usual swirling and bubbling and causing no alarm, though. For a Venezuelan, the color is defintiely typical, somewhat bright but very red and deep, with a red aroma to match. Spices are present, too, with an emphasis on clove, and then woodier elements come out, and finally cream. It’s complex, no doubt, suggesting a highly unique and exciting flavor not encountered frequently from Venezuela.

Strawberries and cream come on right away, then the flavor turns slightly darker, resembling dried cherries and then a buttermilk-like twang. Floral and also tannic, the flavor seems all over the place, and then shifts again to woody and dark coffee with still an emphasis on mild acid, contributing somewhat of a sour edge to a predominantly dark flavor. Texture is a bit more steady, melting smoothly yet with some moderate grain here and there but nothing like Amedei or Dagoba.

Cuyagua is like the Frankenstein of cacao. It reminds me of Carenero, Sur del Lago, and some Ocumares, all stitched up into one single chocolate. But the similarity to Ocumare is uncanny, mirroring it heavily but to a darker degree, if perchance to rival Domori’s Puertomar, which is of comparable flavor and presentation but of much higher quality than Cuyagua. Notwithstanding, Cuyagua is a good chocolate, but in some ways chaotic and random, seemingly stitched together with several of Venzuela’s typical flavors.



About the Author

Hans-Peter Rot




 
 

 
Valrhona - El Pedregal

Valrhona – El Pedregal

New for 2011, a reincarnation of Valrhona’s earlier gift-box only Pedregal offering. Porcelana – a Venezuelan white-beaned criollo variety – is often considered to be the ‘champagne’ of cacao varie...
by Seventy%
1

 
 
Chocolate splash

Slow Chocolate: taste workshop – 16 Feb 2012

'Slow Chocolate' is whole new approach to eating chocolate and the the art of chocolate appreciation. Our one day course will awaken your chocolate senses and take you on a journey of discovery on your way to becoming a true...
by Seventy%
1

 
 
Forest fruits

‘Chocolate Flavours’ – monthly flavour journeys

Our new inspirational series of monthly tastings exploring the flavour notes of fine chocolate. We taste the chocolate, the flavours, try cocktails and ganaches. Start with 'spice' and, finish with 'floral', a great, fun way to...
by Seventy%
0

 

 
Susana, Martin and Damian Allsop talking Slow Chocolate

Seasonal ‘eatings’ from The Chocolate Festival!

Three days of chocolate indulgence transformed London's South Bank into a chocoholic's paradise
by Susana Cárdenas Overstall
2

 
Connoisseur Chocolate tours
 
Damian Allsop Pure Collection 2011

Damian Allsop – Water In The Equation

Damian Allsop shares his secret of his success by combining water with chocolate to create a sophisticated ganache. evolutionary. Bold. Humble. Damian Allsop still remembers the first chocolate ganache he made with his mentor R...
by Susana Cárdenas Overstall
0

 




Latest reviews

  1. Bonnat – Apotequil Martin Christy, 17 Jan 2012
  2. Valrhona – El Pedregal Alex Rast, 14 Jan 2012
  3. Valrhona – El Pedregal Martin Christy, 12 Jan 2012
  4. Mast Brothers – Madagascar 72% Georg Bernardini, 6 Jan 2012
  5. Michel Cluizel – Hacienda ‘Los Anconès’ Georg Bernardini, 6 Jan 2012

@Seventypercent Twitter feed

Search site