Like virtually all Madagascars, even dark roasting can’t hide the light bean colour evident through the plastic. In a side-by-side display of Pralus, this one seems almost tan. It’s got some bubbling but a flawless temper makes this bar shine like gold.

The aroma is very pleasant, very Madagascar with that woody/cedar tone that is so characteristic dominating, along with a cherry fruitiness that is an ideal complement, along with a hint of something grape (could this be what happens to citrus notes when strongly roasted? Thus primed to expect an archetypal Madagascar one bites in and tastes…archetypal Pralus. That is, the roast dominates entirely, so that the flavour is mostly coffee, with perhaps a slight hint of molasses. The flavour also dies off very quickly into a flat chocolatey blandness, so that it is the intial coffee spike that delivers most of the punch. This is clearly what happens when roast dominates bean.

The texture evokes few quibbles, though – ultra-smooth and creamy, very refined indeed. It’s really a shame, for because of the very dark roast the flavours of Madagascar that would have been lovely with such a texture, one feels, are wasted. Being fair, it’s not a bad bar – it’s just that it probably could have been better: Pralus has pushed the roasting frontier too far this time. But if you like a chocolate more for its roast qualities than for any specific bean characteristics here is a fine choice.

Great looking bar, showing excellent sheen and temper, and a deep red, almost brick color that indicates the usual Pralus roast. Aroma is unnaturally dark and woody, subtle and low-key…yet red and acidic, showing the beans’ natural character. Overall, it’s strong and sharp but not nearly as enticing as most Madagascans tend to be, thanks to the roast.

Flavor is also subtle, deep, and brooding like thunder rumbling miles away. Cherries and currants try to perk up the boldness of the chocolate, then blueberries and orange progressively later. The key here, though, is darkness and boldness, namely coffee, courtesy of the roast, yet one can pick up on the details of the flavor underneath, which is a lovely contrast that does seem to lighten the load a bit.

Texture is polished and smooth, definitely among the best of Pralus’ achievements and for a Madagascar incredibly long and satisfying. Overall, the bar is something of a deviant for the origin; it’s amazingly interesting considering the nature of Pralus’ roast, which before tasting seems to be a poor match for this light cacao. Contrast, then, is theme to focus on, and the resilience of a cacao that presumably would have conceded under high heat but instead emerged victorious.