At long last, somebody has come up with an interpretation of the great Ecuador bean that leaves nothing on the table. Domori proves the winner, and here has created a flawless chocolate that should quickly become the reference for how Ecuador is done. Breathtaking both for its towering strength and for its giant body, a chocolate that withstands comparison against any other.
Alex Rast: 19-Apr-2007
One may forgive Domori for a description on the wrapper that is completely inaccurate: anyone who knows Ecuador chocolate knows that here is a bean that is anything but fresh and mild, but rather is bold and powerful. Getting past the box and into the chocolate, its appearance is typical: i.e. very dark blackish and brooding. Similarly the Domori mould is well-formed and seamless, although bubbling does show on the back to a fair degree.
The aroma is all you expect from Ecuador, with the signature blackberry immediately asserting itself, accompanied by a very harmonious coffee. In the middle there is something light and tropical, so in fairness maybe we shouldn’t entirely throw away Domori’s description, but it soon disappears beneath a mound of earthiness. Classic.
The flavour is likewise classic through and through. The same pronounced blackberry flavour surges onto the scene, paired this time with the well-known Domori cheesey whiff. The middle becomes pleasant coffee and chocolatey with smokey hints: did Domori roast longer than is usual for them? In the finish that raisin or perhaps molasses hint that is also a sure sign of Ecuadorean origins manifests as well, so as to seal its greatness. Domori ties it up in a very pretty textural bow with its standard near-flawless smoothness and creaminess.
The word “”awesome”" just seems to come to mind each time one considers this chocolate. How did Domori manage to do everything so right? In part it does look as though a decision to lean the roast a bit darker than usual (which definitely befits the sturdy Ecuador varietal) was an inspired one. In part it looks like years of experience and experimentation paying off. Domori is a company that’s taken risks before with beans and interpretations and we have here an example of what that experience can do. And for us it’s an experience we should share as well.