Interestingly, Domori reveals here in the classically fruity Sur Del Lago the reality that not all beans make for a great 100% interpretation. While not bad, and certainly capturing all of the bean’s distinctive fruitiness, the lack of sugar allows other, assertive characteristics to express themselves fully that might better stay hidden. Like the good friend you didn’t realise had a Past, it needs a little bit of a forgiving nature to appreciate without being turned off.
Alex Rast: 25-Apr-2007
Looking every bit the typical Domori, this bar comes out of the wrapper with a fair number of bubbles but little else to mar it visually. It’s of the expected medium-red-brick colour and certainly commands a bold image. Aroma is all one expects from Sur Del Lago, creamy initially, then with a nice strawberry burst. A side note of spices makes it attractively different from the really monotone fruity chocolates. There is a hint of danger lurking, though in a smoky, oak trace and hints of balsamic in the finish. Will this bar be too powerful?
The flavour certainly is powerful, but as for excessive, it’s something of a judgement call. The intial sense is of cinnamon – the spice of the aroma, and then comes the familiar, and in this case well-sequenced, strong raspberry. Moving on, the taste develops an unusual, and one must say not entirely harmonious, olive/creamy character. In the finish, though, is where the problems really set in, with an iron,beefy body overlying strong, harsh bitterness. The chocolate starts out on the right foot but gradually loses poise.
Not that the texture shows it: it’s pure Domori, smooth and silky. Still, the bar retains something of the character of a young, promising, but inexperienced Shakespearean actor: initially dramatic and compelling, but lacking the stamina to hold up and stay balanced. It feels as though this is an issue of the bean being asked to stand alone: it needs the supporting cast of sugar before it can really shine. Perhaps it’s not a chocolate that needs excessive criticism, but it’s not a first-rank star either.