Reviews

June 27, 2007
 

Amano – Madagascar – review – Hans-Peter Rot

More articles by »
Written by: Hans-Peter Rot

Unlike the minimalist packaging, the bar itself conveys plenty of action such as swirling, air bubbling, and even cracking, but the color, however, is pretty and highly typical for the origin: light and orange, highlighting bright rust. Aroma too seems a bit feral and wild, predominantly vinegary in its constituency but also fruity with prunes and dates and perhaps a suggestion of molasses. It’s also quite intense, hurling itself at you with high velocity.

A sweet yet savory tone of balsamic vinegar underscores the profile and remains constant throughout, while an intense level of acidity rises above to highlight various fruits. Most notably prunes and raisins come to the fore, but they are eventually paired with quiet notes of oranges and raspberries, in addition to a beef-like subtleness, which is probably the result of the chocolate’s balsamic wanderings. The overall effect is as inferred, sweet and savory, but the combination is arresting and gorgeous, perhaps beautiful in its contrast. In light of this great flavor, the texture isn’t really much of a concern. It’s not completely smooth, marred by a scant amount of grain and dryness, but the general consistency is thick and highly unusual for an origin associated with exceptional creaminess.

Considering all other Madagascans on the market, Amano seems to have redefined all previous notions of what this origin should deliver. They’ve captured many diametric characteristics of Madagascar that most makers usually emphasize or deliver exclusively, while at the same time offered new ones as well. In a sense, Amano has exploded onto the market, shouting and hollering, making their rookie performance not easily unnoticed. And how could this bar not raise a few eyebrows? It’s a unique and interesting interpretation, one that could help solidify Amano’s stance as a serious contender.



About the Author

Hans-Peter Rot




 
 

 
Drinks and Specials Hamper, Duffy’s

Seventy%’s 2013 Chocolate Christmas List

Short of Christmas gift ideas? Choose from our chocolate gift list or buy a last minute tasting course gift certificate.
by Seventy%
0

 
 
DSC_7829

Chocolate Tasting Certificate

Sign up for our new Chocolate Tasting Certificate courses - your route to expert taster in 3 levels.
by Seventy%
0

 
 
390589_462914460456841_547384378_n_cr

An evening with Maricel Presilla

A Chocolate Week special tasting with Maricel Presilla, author of 'The New Taste of Chocolate' and Award-winning Cuban-American chef.
by Seventy%
0

 

 
ChocolateTreeMadagascarraw7090gcropped

The Chocolate Tree – Madagascar Raw 70%

The Chocolate Tree ventures boldly into territory formerly almost the exclusive domain of Pacari with a raw chocolate that one has reason to believe may be classified as “fine”. It’s even more refreshing to se...
by Alex Rast
2

 
Seventy% supports the International Chocolate Awards
 
Askinosie Del Tambo Ecuador 70pc & nibs enrobed Cru Sauvage Bolivia Felchlin

Directly Traded collection from Geert Vercruysse

Belgian chocolatier Geert Vercruysse creates a unique collection of ganaches using directly traded chocolate, just in time for the birth of new industry organisation, Direct Cacao.
by Martin Christy
1

 




Latest reviews

  1. The Chocolate Tree – Madagascar Raw 70% Alex Rast, 15 Jun 2013
  2. The Chocolate Tree – Ecuador 82% Alex Rast, 14 Dec 2012
  3. Friis-Holm – Chuno Double Turned Alex Rast, 3 Dec 2012
  4. Friis-Holm – Chuno Triple Turned Alex Rast, 18 Nov 2012
  5. Chapon – Chuao Alex Rast, 18 Nov 2012

Search site