If bitterness and ash were highly desired flavors, Slitti would have a winner here. Unfortunately, though, this chocolate is far from that, embodying just about everything that could possibly go wrong in a chocolate. With Gran Cacao 100%, we find out this blend needs sugar.
Alex Rast: 18-Aug-2007
Slitti, as usual, encases the chocolate in relative insecurity, behind a thin cellulose wrapper that makes the chocolate’s visual appeal clear from the outset. It may be somewhat dark, but out of the wrapper, it is perfect – with nary a trace of mould imperfections or temper irregularites. That said, the aroma is less perfect, being alarmingly dark, with a strong earthy/coffee body and hints of dark grapes. One wonders if perhaps the chocolate was overroasted: certainly that fruity hint gives a suggestion of greater and better things that might have been latent in the bean.
As it happens, though, the flavour isn’t bad – starting out confidently in strawberries and melon. Unfortunately it isn’t great either, sinking quickly into flat coffee, with a touch of cream. Probably indeed the beans got overroasted, although not completely ruined. Yet still, there is a sense more could have been achieved: certainly the chocolate doesn’t stand out and there is something of the disappointment of Domori’s Chacao Puro – another bar that builds excitement only to deflate it. It’s too bad, because this could have been a winner but ends up middle-of-the-pack.
Texture is also rather middle-of-the-pack, which is definitely a defect in a 100% chocolate which, with their immense cocoa butter percentage, should be effortlessly smooth and creamy. Slitti usually goes for a very refined, elegant presentation and it is a surprise to see him slip here. Overall the feeling is of a bar somewhat hastily conceived, something to fill a market position but with scant attention paid to getting it right beyond a basic level. It might not be inedible, but it still comes off as quite mediocre overall.
Hans-Peter Rot: 16-Aug-2007
SlittiÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s plastic-like appearance transfers to 100% cocoa content and doesnÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t wane with its immaculate finish. The bar simply looks perfect on all counts and canÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t offer a flaw even under a microscope. For such a high percentage, the color is dark as one would expect, unleashing a blackness that its lower percentage brethren were unable to achieve. And while the aroma in those bars was strong, this one here hits an apex in intensity but not in greatness. Everything about it suggests over roasting and burnt embers, with subtle red flecks of something incoherent underneath. ItÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s simply not pleasant at all.
If the aroma werenÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t warning enough, the flavor delivers an atrocity not worth experiencing regardless of intent. The bitterness and ashiness of flavor are simply too unbearable and dreadful to endure, even for a chocolate of this class. Raspberry is among the only recognizable notes, and there appears to be some nuttiness here too, more towards the end, but the overall profile is bitter, acrid, and overly tannic. Just the mere presence of this bar will make faces cringe. Despite all this, though, there is one positive aspect to the chocolate: texture. ItÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s thick, pasty, and very creamy, just what is expected from this class. Thankfully, Slitti got something right.
This is a chocolate that will you leave speechless for all the wrong reasons. Without any sugar to allay the bitterness, this monstrosity will surely horrify your taste buds. This chocolate is just as offensive to the tongue as sulfurous fumes are to the nose. It is, in essence, painful to consume and hardly edible in this manifestation. What Slitti was thinking when he formulated this bar is beyond my mortal comprehension, because this canÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t possibly appeal to anyone, except maybe to those who have an inhuman tolerance to bitterness.