Reviews

September 9, 2007
 

Malagasy – Sambirano 2006 – review – Hans-Peter Rot

More articles by »
Written by: Hans-Peter Rot

Before unwrapping Sambirano, it’s easy to see that the bar looks much better than last year. The packaging has been updated with a more stylish motif, and the bar itself looks outstanding and dark purplish in color, similar to Arriba. To make things better, the aroma is ideal both in strength and in character. It’s powerful and sharp, redolent of cranberries and a deep chocolate intensity, revealing the stronger side of Madagascar most bars never approach.

Unfortunately, the chocolate falls apart at the seams. There is absolutely no harmony in what is arguably Malagasy’s worst chocolate in their two-year run. First off, the texture is similar to Mora Mora and melts so smoothly that the flavor takes its sweet time to develop. Once it finally does, it tastes muffled yet sharply offensive, acting as if it’s ashamed of the glaring ugliness it’s trying so desperately to hide.

Only a strong Dutched flavor can be detected here and none of the beautiful cranberries of last year. It’s also bitter and acrid, which normally can be favorable traits, but not here. The chocolate is just too chaotic and messy, failing to unify anything into a coherent picture to let us know that Malagasy at least tried to salvage the low quality beans they obviously acquired this year. Hopefully, next year we will see a return to form for Malagasy.



About the Author

Hans-Peter Rot




 
 

 
Drinks and Specials Hamper, Duffy’s

Seventy%’s 2013 Chocolate Christmas List

Short of Christmas gift ideas? Choose from our chocolate gift list or buy a last minute tasting course gift certificate.
by Seventy%
0

 
 
DSC_7829

Chocolate Tasting Certificate

Sign up for our new Chocolate Tasting Certificate courses - your route to expert taster in 3 levels.
by Seventy%
0

 
 
390589_462914460456841_547384378_n_cr

An evening with Maricel Presilla

A Chocolate Week special tasting with Maricel Presilla, author of 'The New Taste of Chocolate' and Award-winning Cuban-American chef.
by Seventy%
0

 

 
ChocolateTreeMadagascarraw7090gcropped

The Chocolate Tree – Madagascar Raw 70%

The Chocolate Tree ventures boldly into territory formerly almost the exclusive domain of Pacari with a raw chocolate that one has reason to believe may be classified as “fine”. It’s even more refreshing to se...
by Alex Rast
2

 
Seventy% supports the International Chocolate Awards
 
Askinosie Del Tambo Ecuador 70pc & nibs enrobed Cru Sauvage Bolivia Felchlin

Directly Traded collection from Geert Vercruysse

Belgian chocolatier Geert Vercruysse creates a unique collection of ganaches using directly traded chocolate, just in time for the birth of new industry organisation, Direct Cacao.
by Martin Christy
1

 




Latest reviews

  1. The Chocolate Tree – Madagascar Raw 70% Alex Rast, 15 Jun 2013
  2. The Chocolate Tree – Ecuador 82% Alex Rast, 14 Dec 2012
  3. Friis-Holm – Chuno Double Turned Alex Rast, 3 Dec 2012
  4. Friis-Holm – Chuno Triple Turned Alex Rast, 18 Nov 2012
  5. Chapon – Chuao Alex Rast, 18 Nov 2012

@Seventypercent Twitter feed

Search site