Reviews

November 10, 2007
 

Dagoba – Prima Materia – review – Hans-Peter Rot

More articles by »
Written by: Hans-Peter Rot

At a whopping 100%, Dagoba has finally produced a genuinely attractive bar. The sheen on this one is adequate, and no manufacture flaws are present, although the bar as a whole retains a distinct rugged look that could be explained by the nature of the mold itself. Continuing, both color and aroma are lighter than expected for a 100%, both pinkish-red and highly delicate overall. The aroma, though, delves further, presenting mainly raspberries, then mild spice and blueberries, a surprisingly complex (and sweet natured) blend that echoes Madagascar in every way but not with power, rather finesse.

And in flavor, that is pretty much what the chocolate offers, but not in overly aggressive ways, rather with as much finesse that a 100% can possibly muster. Simply put, the chocolate is remarkably easy to eat. The flavor starts off ungracefully (tannic and bitter), however, but mellows out quickly, sending a wonderfully crisp and “tingling” raspberry overtone to which is added spice, then blueberries, and finally lighter shades of wood and coffee, all of which are subtle but obvious enough in the background to lend an elegant edge to an otherwise crisp, refreshing, and fruity flavor.

Texture is exactly what one would expect for an unsweetened: pasty and satisfyingly thick without any flaw whatsoever, the chocolate continues to surpass expectations at every turn. Yet, with a length as short as this, Madagascar again fits into the context of what has just elapsed. And who would think it, when at 65% the chocolate operated on a framework of darkness but here shows much lighter intentions, diverging from the typical Dagoba style in very positive ways. Needless to say, this is one of the company’s better efforts and with unsweetened organic chocolate in short supply, Dagoba has risen to the challenge and put forth a bar that arguably will be difficult to top for quite some time, even for Domori, the peerless master of the unsweetened.



About the Author

Hans-Peter Rot




 
 

 
ChocolateTreeMadagascarraw7090gcropped

The Chocolate Tree – Madagascar Raw 70%

The Chocolate Tree ventures boldly into territory formerly almost the exclusive domain of Pacari with a raw chocolate that one has reason to believe may be classified as “fine”. It’s even more refreshing to se...
by Alex Rast
2

 
 
Askinosie Del Tambo Ecuador 70pc & nibs enrobed Cru Sauvage Bolivia Felchlin

Directly Traded collection from Geert Vercruysse

Belgian chocolatier Geert Vercruysse creates a unique collection of ganaches using directly traded chocolate, just in time for the birth of new industry organisation, Direct Cacao.
by Martin Christy
1

 
 
Ecuador8290g_cropped

The Chocolate Tree – Ecuador 82%

Scotland joins the club of bean-to-bar countries with this (and other) chocolates from interesting micro-producer The Chocolate Tree in Edinburgh. This is a new experiment for a company previously involved in confectionery and ...
by Alex Rast
3

 

 
chuno-db_scaled

Friis-Holm – Chuno Double Turned

The other half of the Chuno pair from Friis-Holm, which plays the very interesting game of asking by way of practical experimentation what differences in fermentation might do. Like the Triple Turned, this explores an entirely ...
by Alex Rast
1

 
Seventy% supports the International Chocolate Awards
 
RedStarOcumare72

Red Star Chocolate – Ocumare 72%

After a long hiatus, during which Red Star was apparently tinkering with their process, Duffy returns with a revised Ocumare dark. A well-known but highly-reputed origin is an obvious place to start after process changes, and t...
by Alex Rast
0

 




Latest reviews

  1. The Chocolate Tree – Madagascar Raw 70% Alex Rast, 15 Jun 2013
  2. The Chocolate Tree – Ecuador 82% Alex Rast, 14 Dec 2012
  3. Friis-Holm – Chuno Double Turned Alex Rast, 3 Dec 2012
  4. Friis-Holm – Chuno Triple Turned Alex Rast, 18 Nov 2012
  5. Chapon – Chuao Alex Rast, 18 Nov 2012

Search site