November 8, 2007

Kshocolat – 72% Single Estate – review – Hans-Peter Rot

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Written by: Hans-Peter Rot

In the wrapper sits a bar molded with apparently Valrhona in mind since the scoring and mold are identical in form. Sheen is also immaculate like a Valrhona bar, but where this bar diverges is an awkward and haphazard molding job, showing undulations and rounded edges all over, suggesting haste and/or carelessness. The aroma, too, is different than Valrhona, consisting primarily of vanilla in the fore, then a funky mustiness and ash notes underneath that compete with coconut and strawberries at equal strengths. It truly is an odd scent that for now leaves mixed impressions.

Curiously, the first taste is a duo of cherry cordial and peat, a surprising and highly eccentric opener that quickly settles into strong vanilla and mild Dutched cocoa for the remainder of the length, with a decent chocolaty presence presumably because of the origin: Sao Tome. Continuing under the presumption of unfavorable genetics, questionable processing, and/or poor sourcing the chocolate offers only a slight bitterness that for a bar of such narrow flavor sticks out like a sore thumb and completes a package that is inexcusably nondescript and disreputable to an origin that as of late has been performing remarkably well.

Texture is very smooth, creamy, and quick to dissolve, which considering the lackluster flavor should be perceived as a positive. Made with Sao Tome cacao, this bar is the sorriest thing to ever come from this country. Indeed, this is a bar that unlike the competition is not worth trying since in terms of flavor, nothing of interest exists and what does surface is only fleeting, creating a chocolate that falls dead on the tongue and unable to inspire further visitation. A remarkably soothing bar, though, the flavor is non-challenging, to be sure, but in an origin that is already quite limited, this is not exactly a good thing.

About the Author

Hans-Peter Rot


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