Reviews

December 21, 2007
 

Askinosie – San Jose Del Tambo – review – Hans-Peter Rot

More articles by »
Written by: Hans-Peter Rot

Right from the get-go, Askinosie chooses to convey a certain theme with their packaging, one that is supposed to have grassroots appeal but looks more like a police criminal file, complete with paper bag material, typewriter font, and blurred portrait of a farmer at the top. Jokes aside, though, Askinosie is serious about molding and tempering, showing a polished and very refined bar devoid of any flaw whatsoever. The aroma, too, is impressive and strong, unleashing blackberries and raspberries that scream lightness, oddly enough, but also a distinct crispness like Valrhona’s Manjari.

And like that famous Valrhona bar, the flavor is crisp, refreshing, and overall very unchallenging, bearing more similarity to a Madagascan than an Ecuadorian. Nonetheless, a subtle Arriba darkness is present far in the background while blackberries are prominent, too, as well as raspberries, both giving off a moderate sharpness like a fine sparkling wine or champagne. Texturally, the bar has one of the more refined consistencies for the origin, melting with some thickness as well, and for the most part devoid of dryness at the end that plagues this cacao so incessantly.

After tasting the Soconusco bar, one can make some pretty solid assumptions that Askinosie is treating these two cacaos very differently, with this one in particular dictated (presumably) by conservative roasting. This has got to be one of the lightest Ecuador Nacionals ever produced, defined by delicacy and crispness rather than the stout and bold persuasions that precedence has dictated thus far. Being a new kid on the block, Askinosie has nothing to lose by adopting this approach, and as mentioned in the Soconusco review, it’s refreshing to see a chocolate maker’s style guided by cacao type. Not to say that style adherence is bad, but learning and adaptability can be critical measures of success, opening possibilities where others may see obstacles.



About the Author

Hans-Peter Rot




 
 

 
ChocolateTreeMadagascarraw7090gcropped

The Chocolate Tree – Madagascar Raw 70%

The Chocolate Tree ventures boldly into territory formerly almost the exclusive domain of Pacari with a raw chocolate that one has reason to believe may be classified as “fine”. It’s even more refreshing to se...
by Alex Rast
2

 
 
Askinosie Del Tambo Ecuador 70pc & nibs enrobed Cru Sauvage Bolivia Felchlin

Directly Traded collection from Geert Vercruysse

Belgian chocolatier Geert Vercruysse creates a unique collection of ganaches using directly traded chocolate, just in time for the birth of new industry organisation, Direct Cacao.
by Martin Christy
1

 
 
Ecuador8290g_cropped

The Chocolate Tree – Ecuador 82%

Scotland joins the club of bean-to-bar countries with this (and other) chocolates from interesting micro-producer The Chocolate Tree in Edinburgh. This is a new experiment for a company previously involved in confectionery and ...
by Alex Rast
3

 

 
chuno-db_scaled

Friis-Holm – Chuno Double Turned

The other half of the Chuno pair from Friis-Holm, which plays the very interesting game of asking by way of practical experimentation what differences in fermentation might do. Like the Triple Turned, this explores an entirely ...
by Alex Rast
1

 
Seventy% supports the International Chocolate Awards
 
RedStarOcumare72

Red Star Chocolate – Ocumare 72%

After a long hiatus, during which Red Star was apparently tinkering with their process, Duffy returns with a revised Ocumare dark. A well-known but highly-reputed origin is an obvious place to start after process changes, and t...
by Alex Rast
0

 




Latest reviews

  1. The Chocolate Tree – Madagascar Raw 70% Alex Rast, 15 Jun 2013
  2. The Chocolate Tree – Ecuador 82% Alex Rast, 14 Dec 2012
  3. Friis-Holm – Chuno Double Turned Alex Rast, 3 Dec 2012
  4. Friis-Holm – Chuno Triple Turned Alex Rast, 18 Nov 2012
  5. Chapon – Chuao Alex Rast, 18 Nov 2012

Search site