December 15, 2007

Patric Chocolate – Madagascar Sambirano Valley – review – Hans-Peter Rot

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Written by: Hans-Peter Rot

Patric makes it very clear that image is important. The bar itself is just as shiny and gorgeous as any other artisan producer such as Cluizel or Valrhona, with exception for some minor unevenness in the mold. Aroma, meanwhile, is typical for Madagascar but fashionable nonetheless, resembling a Californian merlot with lots of vigor. Hit after hit of dark raspberries, cranberries, then subtle hints of blueberries and prunes make for a wonderfully red and light aroma that implies strong acidity in the flavor.

Right on cue, the flavor is strongly acidic, but not overly so. Patric has controlled it rather well, allowing raspberries (and a hit of blueberries) to glide through inoffensively but with plenty of energy as well. The flavor also gets darker the more it melts, delivering prunes later and ending on a much darker tone than it started with, like hiking deeper and deeper into a cavern. Overall, one could compare this to Domori, but Patric is the winner, hands down, demonstrating much more balance and care with the beans.

Texture, however, won’t stamp an impression of Domori, but it is highly good nonetheless, melting thickly yet with a polished smoothness that reeks of sophistication. The chocolate is very lovely and easy to eat, but the complexities are extremely subtle and require a bit of patience to taste. In this regard, the chocolate is very sophisticated, but the tartness brings the flavor down to a much more accessible and lighthearted level. As such, the bar is versatile but equally impressive no matter how one tastes it.

About the Author

Hans-Peter Rot


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