January 13, 2008

Bonnat – Porcelana – review – Hans-Peter Rot

More articles by »
Written by: Hans-Peter Rot

Bonnat has gotten their hands on another rare and revered cacao, this time some Porcelana beans sourced from Venezuela. The bar looks better than most Bonnat bars and shows the company took extra care in the temper and mold. The color just might be slightly darker than is expected from these usually lighter beans, suggesting maybe a darker roast which the aroma confirms. It’s dark and redolent of raisin, with red fruits underneath, but overall, there seems to be a similar balance that Amedei conveyed in their Porcelana.

Flavor doesn’t deviate far from aroma and delivers a somewhat stifled yet notably bitter assemblage of notes that suggest these beans aren’t the cream of the crop. Raisins and coffee lead this roast-inspired flavor, with strawberries popping in, but the coffee and tannins are too powerful and take on a familiarity of poorly processed Forasteros. Yet, as noted, everything seems distant or trapped under foggy glass, courtesy of so much extra cocoa butter that the texture is Bonnat’s finest to date.

After trying this bar it quickly becomes obvious there are serious issues Bonnat was unable to iron out with processing. Bean quality is the first and foremost problem that nothing in the factory could improve, even the addition of cocoa butter. Because Porcelana beans are typically non-bitter and delicate overall, this chocolate embodies everything one would not expect and may lead to concerns regarding the bar’s genetic constituency. Is it really Porcelana—albeit bad Porcelana—or is something else mixed in? By any standard, though, this is just a bad chocolate and under normal circumstances I would gladly demand a recount before finalizing a review. However, at such a hefty price, I’ll just have to stick to my guns until another bar surfaces and proves that this bar was a fluke.

About the Author

Hans-Peter Rot


Drinks and Specials Hamper, Duffy’s

Seventy%’s 2013 Chocolate Christmas List

Short of Christmas gift ideas? Choose from our chocolate gift list or buy a last minute tasting course gift certificate.
by Seventy%


Chocolate Tasting Certificate

Sign up for our new Chocolate Tasting Certificate courses - your route to expert taster in 3 levels.
by Seventy%


An evening with Maricel Presilla

A Chocolate Week special tasting with Maricel Presilla, author of 'The New Taste of Chocolate' and Award-winning Cuban-American chef.
by Seventy%



The Chocolate Tree – Madagascar Raw 70%

The Chocolate Tree ventures boldly into territory formerly almost the exclusive domain of Pacari with a raw chocolate that one has reason to believe may be classified as “fine”. It’s even more refreshing to se...
by Alex Rast

Seventy% supports the International Chocolate Awards
Askinosie Del Tambo Ecuador 70pc & nibs enrobed Cru Sauvage Bolivia Felchlin

Directly Traded collection from Geert Vercruysse

Belgian chocolatier Geert Vercruysse creates a unique collection of ganaches using directly traded chocolate, just in time for the birth of new industry organisation, Direct Cacao.
by Martin Christy


Latest reviews

  1. The Chocolate Tree – Madagascar Raw 70% Alex Rast, 15 Jun 2013
  2. The Chocolate Tree – Ecuador 82% Alex Rast, 14 Dec 2012
  3. Friis-Holm – Chuno Double Turned Alex Rast, 3 Dec 2012
  4. Friis-Holm – Chuno Triple Turned Alex Rast, 18 Nov 2012
  5. Chapon – Chuao Alex Rast, 18 Nov 2012

@Seventypercent Twitter feed

Search site