June 17, 2008

Domori – Carupano – review – Hans-Peter Rot

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Written by: Hans-Peter Rot

Carupano looks sleek out of the wrapper, showing good sheen and lack of severe rippling that Domori’s low impact processing tends to impart. An auburn-orange color adds noticeable appeal, but the aroma is pungent and needs to breathe. It’s a light and nutty scent, tangy as well, with pepper highlights and a wonderful creamy quality that makes the whole scent appear luxurious.

Starting off somewhat raw as most Domori bars do, the flavor quickly matures. It’s a carbon copy of the aroma, launching cream and a pleasant tanginess that emphasizes bitter almonds with specks of black pepper. Nutty, too, the chocolate as a whole is very pleasant and slightly light but rich at the same time. Charming and quaint, it’s a flavor to be enjoyed in moderation to extend its elegant appeal.

Domori, of course, nails the texture, and thankfully so since anything less than super smooth would be heresy to such a well-dressed flavor. As lovely as it is, though, it does run the risk of becoming too heavily geared towards a “tan” orientation such as Valrhona’s Palmira or Dagoba’s Milagros, without any fruit or dark notes to counter the relative linearity. Perhaps it’s the creamy, buttery quality that helps, but surely we can sleep better at night knowing that after four years following its inception Carupano has remained virtually unchanged and overall an excellent chocolate.

About the Author

Hans-Peter Rot


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