Domori again shows their mastery over fruity beans with a textbook rendition of the Colombia Nacional origin. With a length that is truly astonishing and new depths of flavour, this brings out the subtle characteristics of a bean that can easily turn cloying and candy-like in its fruitiness. More than any other manufacturer, perhaps, Domori shows how to experiment successfully with new and different origins and here is yet another demonstration of their skill.
Alex Rast: 25-Oct-2008
The merger with Illy means new package design – with a nod to Domori’s original package, but sadly no rethink of the still-annoying plastic inner wrap. Within even that, the bar isn’t exactly first-rate in appearance, flattish, and very dark. Signs of scuffing also indicate possibly careless shipment: it looks as though they would do with reexamining their distributors.
Nonetheless, the aroma is excellent, classic Domori, with a distinctive spicy, cinnamon background. Citrus and cedar highlights almost makes one think this is a Madagascar…did they accidentally put a Sambirano in a Teyuna box? An initial taste dispells any doubt: this is pure Colombia, with a soft but lovely fruitiness of strawberries and cream mixed with peach. The fruit goes on and on with a persistence that is hard to believe, finally giving way to a woodier, perhaps slightly coconutty taste with a surprising licorice hint: a flavour utterly absent with other Colombias.
As usual, Domori creates an impeccably smooth bar, although a slightly drier texture hints that perhaps this no-cocoa-butter-added bar has fairly low-fat beans. What remains clear, however, is that Domori’s light touch on processing is the optimal path for a Colombia bean: this one possesses depth and subtlety no previous Colombia chocolate has ever done. One feels that perhaps finally a manufacturer has exhausted the potential of the bean. In the past, the very best of the Colombias were nice, but in a simplistic way. Here’s one that is as sophisticated as it is alluring.