New origins from Chocovic and Linköping Chokladfestival 2009

Chocovic Xoconusco and Sambirano

Chocovic Xoconusco and Sambirano

Chocovic have two new origin offerings, brought in to supplement their existing small origin range. Both bars are a step up in quality for the Spanish bean to bar maker, who are also owners of the Sampaka chocolatier chain and suppliers to upmarket Spanish brands such as Enrico Rovira.

The two new bars have quite different sources and degrees of originality. With Sambirano, Chocovic have followed the path already trodden by most fine chocolate makers, to Madagascar. The choice of name is not exactly original either, Domori, Malagasy and others have already named chocolate after the Sambirano River, which flows through the small cacao growing region inthe north of the Madagascan island.

The other bar is from a more innovative source. Here Chocovic have branched out with a limited edition chocolate using beans from Socunusco, Mexico. A long time ago this was the most famous and prizedof cacao growing groves – the emperor Motecuhzuma had his personal cacao groves here. Mexico scarcely has any good cacao left though, much was lost through neglect and eventually overplanted with iffy forasteros to feed the US confectionery giants – the likes of Hershey,etc.

The possibility of recovering something of quality is tantalising though. Amongst all those imports, hybrids and mistakenly named ‘criollos’ (varieties introduced a mere 70 years ago are often considered by farmers ‘native’ and therefore ‘criollo’), there could just be something left from pre-Columbian times.

Chocovic are not the first to go hunting around the ancient glades though. Bonnat have already released a similar bar,using beans from a project they’ve been working with in the region, as have Askinosie. Meanwhile, south of the border in Guatemala there are other recovery projects going on, as I found out during my visit there last year.

Art Pollard, Maja Berthas with Martin Christy at Linköping Chokladfestival, 2009

Art Pollard, Maja Berthas with Martin Christy at Linköping Chokladfestival, 2009 (Photo: Per Liss)

My first try of these new chocolates was on stage at the recent chocolate festival in Sweden with doyen of Swedish chocolate Maja Berthas and the man behind Utah based bean-to-bar maker Amano. We were doing a short piece about the 2009 Academy of Chocolate Awards when Maja (one of the judges in London) surprised us by whipping out the new Chocovic offerings. We tried them there and then, with the Swedish Chocovic distributor Femtorp looking on nervously not 20 metres away, their stand being one of the closest to the stage.

Fortunately, the chocolate turned out to be a pleasant surprise, a definite improvement on previous Chocovic offerings, and making a lot more sense than the confusing Selvática line, released last year and trying to confuse us with stories of rainforests flavours, but mostly made with African forasteros as far as I could tell. Gone was the typical candy / liquorice nose that has up to now made Chocovic easy to identify.

Sambirano

Sambirano has a clean aroma, fruity and maybe hints of ash, but with none of the candy note typical of most Chocovic chocolate. This may be because of the complete absence of vanilla from the recipe, which is probably a good departure. The taste is good and fruity, though with less full citrus than can be expected from some of the best Madagascar bars. (We did try the bar right after Amano’s Gold winning bar though, which was perhaps a little unfair.) There is a hint of ash though, which suggests a lighter and more even roast would help. This is barely detectable though, the chocolate is very smooth, if slightly glutinous. I suspect Chocovic Madagascar will be of interest to many a chocolatier looking for a reasonably priced alternative to some of the popular upper end Madagascans.

Xoconusco

Xoconusco is also without vanilla. The nose if full and fruity, with some top citrus, dark raisin, wood and soft leather. There’s possible something a little dry and dusty there, but not off-putting.The initial taste is very much wood, with quite sour fruit evolving into salt, a little cheese, balsa wood and ending in a pleasant cherry and peach. Munching reveals almonds and blue cheese.That might sound a little messy, but the overall effect is fairly good, with a good chocolate length, even if it’s not actually that long. At the back of all this, there’s something very slightly odd and salty (reminds me of the tone of Belcolade chocolate), but this is not off-putting and this is a chocolate I’d reach for to eat. Undoubtedly the best Chocovic so far.

Well this has turned into something more like a review, so don’t be surprised to find this text cut and paste into the review section.

Good progress for Chocovic and I’d very much like to see the other origin bars made in this style.

The pro game is better when played by collegians because they have learned the nuances of the game. That absolutely goes along with the “get out of the house” reasoning. cheap nfl jerseys I mean ever since That So Raven went bye http://www.mycheapnfljerseys.com bye, and then Corey in the House did the same, nfl jerseys cheap there hasn been a African American with their own show on the Disney channel.. Retinal nerve fiber bundlesEarly detection of axonal tissue wholesale nfl jerseys loss is critical for managing diseases that destroy the RNFL such as glaucoma. Which coaches will get the call that their services are no longer needed? Will certain star college coaches be given a chance to step up to the elite level that is the National Football League? Or will the canned coaches, with their less than fake oakleys stellar performances, simply be shuffled around to different teams? The likely scenario is a combination of the two.. I am very interested in what is happening in England. Lured away from her family at a young age with the promise of advanced schooling, River has been tortured and programmed as an assassin and possible psychic. District Court for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania in a 12 page memorandum.Brody described as “commendable” the efforts made by the players’ representatives and the NFL to reach a negotiated resolution to the class action lawsuit but said she had made her decision “in light of my duty to protect the rights of all potential class members and the insufficiency of cheap football jerseys the current record.”Resolutions of class action lawsuits can have a binding effect on parties who were absent from the resolution, Brody noted, citing precedent. This effectively means that we could all still be yapping about Deflate Gate come February. AGMs will look into employee retention along with the personnel from the HRD. Let’s get back to the games. So what does all this mean? This formula saved the team from having to pay and/or draft top lineman so they can put the money elsewhere. The Herald’s Dylan Cleaver was in Chicago for the week leading up to the 2014 game, when the All Blacks thrashed the USA.”The coverage was surprisingly good. Zynga’s headquarters and costs associated with its zCloud infrastructure were completed. Payton has been rumored to be finding a home on television during his enforced coaching Replica ray bans sabbatical, and who wouldn’t want his football mind on their set? While Deitsch is trotting out John Madden, we’re blowing his network off the back pages of the tabloids with the most explosive hire imaginable. I just hope poor Wonder Woman won’t be reduced to asking the two male heroes how they think they’re going to do in the second half of the movie.. Hernandez, 25, appeared to shake his head “no” earlier as jurors in the Massachusetts trial found him guilty of first degree murder.