Bonnat again confound on manufacturer origin with an entry into the crowded Porcelana-type field with a name exactly matching one from Coppeneur. Are they both producing bean-to-bar? Impossible to tell. Whatever the case, Bonnat produces a fine chocolate but one which adds little in the Porcelana category. Worth trying for the experience but don’t expect any miracles.
Alex Rast: 27-Jun-2009
Bonnat’s bar looks well-finished out of the wrapper, if a little chipped, but could it be too dark? For a Porcelana bean this is definitely on the brown side of things, not in a bad way necessarily but not in a typical way. Still, these are quibbles. As for the aroma, it maintains interest and comes closer to a Porcelana standard, strawberry featuring prominently along with teak suggestions. Later, brown sugar appears, and if the overall aroma is mild this is to be expected of a mild cacao.
Flavour is a bit defocussed. Initially vague fruity flavours predominate; could it be redcurrant? Difficult to say, and then unclear cocoa emerges briefly before woody notes prevail. These in turn give way to strong toasted/coffee, with hints of cream, indicating why the flavour fuzziness: mild overroasting. Nothing fatal, just a little longer or hotter than what would have been perfect.
In the past Bonnat chocolates have been texturally indifferent but not here: the chocolate is ideally creamy and very smooth indeed. One wonders: are they making it themselves? Such good texture is typical of Coppeneur, the other manufacturer using this name and bean. Rather like the flavour which never resolves itself fully, Bonnat here again cloud the issue, making no mention of any other source. Whoever is making what, however, it’s good but not outstanding, worth trying but not worth dying for.