An good idea from Galler – blending sourced couverture with known origins. They recognise that simply remoulding couverture adds no value, and furthermore it’s commendable to see someone explicitly experimenting with origin blends. Unfortunately, the chocolate just doesn’t contribute anything worthwhile, being a demonstration rather of the sins of overroasting for the most part. Thus a fine concept unfortunately stumbles in the execution.
Alex Rast: 17-Oct-2009
Galler’s chocolate looks troubling out of the wrapper, very black, almost as if Dutched. Finish isn’t exactly exceptional either, slightly flat, and with very noticeable bubbling. It doesn’t bode well, nor does the aroma which is basically a plain cocoa with vanilla. Occasional traces of brown sugar and coconut, and a vague earthy background seem more typical of an ordinary bulk-bean chocolate than anything more distinguished.
The flavour more or less confirms this impression. The upfront note is a powerful, almost overwhelming citrus, but this immediately disappears behind an ashy and coffee cloud, an obvious indicator of very excessive overroasting. Very slight brown sugar hints seem to be what is left of the Ecuador trying to make an appearance, but it can never struggle above the leaden dark flavour.
Texture is likewise well off the mark for a high-percentage chocolate, dry and dusty, leaving a pasty feeling in the mouth. It’s all a big disappointment, especially coming from a company whose “”normal”" high-percentage blend – the 85% – is actually very good. Obviously when blending couvertures it can be difficult to have complete process control, but really, Galler here should have been more selective. Nothing in this chocolate suggests origins, indeed, it has all the characteristics of a cheap entry into the high-percentage market. Blending origins is an inspired idea, but Galler needs to try harder than this.