Another bar produced from liquor – one step removed from bean to bar but getting closer – which also turns out to be L’Artisan’s most successful effort to date in this experiment. Almost certainly the finest Jamaica origin on the market, and a fascinating, complex bar. A mix of fruit and nut flavours makes for a classic counterpoint.
Reviews
Alex Rast: 15-Nov-2009
| SCORES | Score/10 | Weight |
|---|---|---|
| Aroma: | 8.5 | 10% |
| Look/snap: | 8 | 5% |
| Taste: | 9.5 | 35% |
| Melt: | 9.5 | 5% |
| Length: | 9 | 15% |
| Opinion: | 9 | 30% |
| Total/100: | 91 | 100% |
| INFO | |
|---|---|
| Best before: | |
| Batch num: | |
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L’Artisan’s chocolate looks a little dark out of the wrapper, and has the usual assortment of bubbles and unevenness characteristic of them, but the temper is first-rate and there are no glaring defects. Meanwhile, the aroma is powerful and pungent, with tobacco and citrus along with hints of grape, pepper, and spices. At first impression it seems there may be a risk of underconching here, but certainly the aroma is complex and full-bodied.
The flavour is about as much of a revelation as may be possible for Jamaica origins. It starts out with a nice strawberry, then moves towards melon and cream before finishing on hazelnut with some smoky notes. The evolution is particularly smooth, logical, and harmonious: a demonstration of how to manage an origin. It’s hard to imagine how they might have done any better.
Texture, too, is about as good as can be achieved, perfectly smooth, perfectly creamy, simply awe-inspiring. L’Artisan has had some winners before but this is perhaps the first time one feels they’ve produced the definitive article. If the Jamaica origin is of interest, this is clearly the bar to try, a textbook exposition of the origin and the art of chocolate making.
I was interested to find this review and bar because there are so few people marketing as Jamaican origin chocolate which I do exclusively. I have a very tiny company of artisan chocolate which I make from bean to bar to bonbon also from St. Mary parish beans from Jamaica. Soon we should be able to purchase directly from farmers who are learning to ferment and dry in their own smaller post-harvest production facilities that are currently being built with a grant from USAID.
My chocolate has a rich nutty, chocolatey aroma while roasting and flavors I avoid attributing fruits or anything other than itself, but that’s my way.
I’d be happy to provide you with a sample if you are interested. I find it goes beautifully with scotch rather than wine.
Nancy Nadel
Chocolate Maker and Chocolatier
The Oakland Chocolate Company
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