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November 3, 2010

Friis Holm Chuno 70%

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Written by: Stuart Robson

The appearance is near flawless here; a deep reddish brown with minimal swirling or bubbling and, while perhaps a little darker than expected, it is difficult to draw comparison where such an unusual and rarely seen origin is involved.

On the nose there is an instant spicy and slightly woody impression alongside fresh tobacco leaf and a little anise; quite unusual and while not particularly exuberant, it is certainly intriguing.

In the mouth this bar is near perfect in texture which only adds to the delivery of a wonderfully balanced range of flavours. Initial sweetness drifts into blackcurrant before a deep and tobacco rich profile emerges. There are hints of anise and dry spices adding complexity and interest before the cedar wood notes from the nose lead into an even, slightly drying finish.

This was the first of the Friis Holm bars I tasted and is still the one I enjoy the most. A rather unusual and highly limited origin has been handled with great skill and care and while there isn’t a huge range of flavours here, there is certainly a real depth of intensity to the profile.  With that in mind, this bar serves as a remarkable example of how to deliver richness of flavour whilst making few textural sacrifices

About the Author

Stuart Robson
Stuart Robson is a passionate foodie born in Scotland and based in Hertfordshire whose main expertise lies in the world of whisky and chocolate. He first began tasting fine chocolate in 2005 with Valrhona Manjari and has since developed a particular interest in single origin bars and a desire to highlight skilled cacao farmers and artisan producers all over the world. Stuart previously trained in Paris while working for a fine chocolatier, and has since become a reviewer for Seventypercent. He is still involved in freelance consultation for small companies working with bean-to-bar chocolate producers and chocolatiers.



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