Reviews

December 8, 2010

Friis Holm – Nicaliso 70%

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Written by: Stuart Robson

At first glance this bar is clearly following on from the Chuno with an enticingly perfect finish. It is hard to imagine a more flawlessly formed bar of chocolate- smooth, even, and with a wonderful shine. The colour is virtually identical to the Chuno and is a little darker than might be associated with other fine bars.

The aroma carries the similarities further; there is an instantly spicy, woody quality but this time it is backed by a tart impression of citrus lemon and a touch of red berry. There are still earthy suggestions and perhaps the faintest hint of smoke, but all together the aroma seems fruiter and a little more demonstrative than in the Chuno.

Initially the flavours are surprisingly soft and delicate with a touch of sweet lime and strawberry jam. The intensity builds and brings with it some sharper citrus qualities before earthier, woody components of leather and tobacco leaf take a firm hold. The finish is perhaps a little flat with a whisper of red fruit and at the very death, a pleasing bitterness reminiscent of walnut skin. As with the Chuno the texture is to be aspired to- it is remarkable that so much flavour can be delivered with a melt that is so instant and incredibly smooth.

Another highly accomplished bar from Friis-Holm. This and the Chuno are hard to separate in terms of quality, both with lovely profiles and with some interesting similarities. The Chuno is deeper and more robust while the Nicaliso is fruitier with a greater sense of elegance. In the end it will probably come down to mood, both being highly recommendable.



About the Author

Stuart Robson
Stuart Robson is a passionate foodie born in Scotland and based in Hertfordshire whose main expertise lies in the world of whisky and chocolate. He first began tasting fine chocolate in 2005 with Valrhona Manjari and has since developed a particular interest in single origin bars and a desire to highlight skilled cacao farmers and artisan producers all over the world. Stuart previously trained in Paris while working for a fine chocolatier, and has since become a reviewer for Seventypercent. He is still involved in freelance consultation for small companies working with bean-to-bar chocolate producers and chocolatiers.




 
 

 
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