Reviews

February 23, 2011

Valrhona – Gran Couva 2010

More articles by »
Written by: Stuart Robson

Valrhona’s annual release from Trinidad has seen some highs and lows over the years but things look pretty good at the start here. The colour is somewhat dark but has some touches of mahogany set against a typically well-tempered finish. The snap is fairly bright and the break particularly clean; all very Valrhona. 

The aroma is robust and rich; hints of toasted nuts sit alongside lightly roasted coffee and liquorice root. A few slightly troubling notes of rubber and fresh plastic come and go. There are some mixed spices on offer also but the impression is rather vague, with only the typically undefined fruity cast so often displayed by this producer adding any high notes. 

On the palette the initial impression is of sweet brown sugar, a splash of honey, clove and a hint of toasted hazelnut. This is a sweet profile overall but there is a brief spike of the aforementioned vaguely citric, fruity acidity in the mid palette though it quickly gives way to more earthy toasted nuts, tobacco leaf, leather and spices. In the finish things take a distinct turn into malt, candied ginger and more cloves, which bring this rather enjoyable yet monotone profile to a close. The melt is as expected from Valrhona, slow, even and near enough flawlessly smooth. 

This is a decent year for Gran Couva, the profile is just as balanced, sweet, buttery and rounded as ever but here I can’t shake the feeling that had the roast been just a touch lighter, a few more characters might have had the chance to shine. With this in mind, the profile is a little vague and nondescript in 2010, and shows again that maybe the world of fine chocolate has moved on a little too fast for Valrhona. That being said, there is always a place for a bar that is well crafted, comforting and familiar; in this, Gran Couva certainly succeeds. 

Valrhona's typical, high quality finish.



About the Author

Stuart Robson
Stuart Robson is a passionate foodie born in Scotland and based in Hertfordshire whose main expertise lies in the world of whisky and chocolate. He first began tasting fine chocolate in 2005 with Valrhona Manjari and has since developed a particular interest in single origin bars and a desire to highlight skilled cacao farmers and artisan producers all over the world. Stuart previously trained in Paris while working for a fine chocolatier, and has since become a reviewer for Seventypercent. He is still involved in freelance consultation for small companies working with bean-to-bar chocolate producers and chocolatiers.




 
 

 
ChocolateTreeMadagascarraw7090gcropped

The Chocolate Tree – Madagascar Raw 70%

The Chocolate Tree ventures boldly into territory formerly almost the exclusive domain of Pacari with a raw chocolate that one has reason to believe may be classified as “fine”. It’s even more refreshing to se...
by Alex Rast
2

 
 
Askinosie Del Tambo Ecuador 70pc & nibs enrobed Cru Sauvage Bolivia Felchlin

Directly Traded collection from Geert Vercruysse

Belgian chocolatier Geert Vercruysse creates a unique collection of ganaches using directly traded chocolate, just in time for the birth of new industry organisation, Direct Cacao.
by Martin Christy
1

 
 
Ecuador8290g_cropped

The Chocolate Tree – Ecuador 82%

Scotland joins the club of bean-to-bar countries with this (and other) chocolates from interesting micro-producer The Chocolate Tree in Edinburgh. This is a new experiment for a company previously involved in confectionery and ...
by Alex Rast
3

 

 
chuno-db_scaled

Friis-Holm – Chuno Double Turned

The other half of the Chuno pair from Friis-Holm, which plays the very interesting game of asking by way of practical experimentation what differences in fermentation might do. Like the Triple Turned, this explores an entirely ...
by Alex Rast
1

 
Seventy% supports the International Chocolate Awards
 
RedStarOcumare72

Red Star Chocolate – Ocumare 72%

After a long hiatus, during which Red Star was apparently tinkering with their process, Duffy returns with a revised Ocumare dark. A well-known but highly-reputed origin is an obvious place to start after process changes, and t...
by Alex Rast
0

 




0 Comments


Be the first to comment!


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>


Latest reviews

  1. The Chocolate Tree – Madagascar Raw 70% Alex Rast, 15 Jun 2013
  2. The Chocolate Tree – Ecuador 82% Alex Rast, 14 Dec 2012
  3. Friis-Holm – Chuno Double Turned Alex Rast, 3 Dec 2012
  4. Friis-Holm – Chuno Triple Turned Alex Rast, 18 Nov 2012
  5. Chapon – Chuao Alex Rast, 18 Nov 2012

@Seventypercent Twitter feed

Search site