Reviews

September 25, 2012

Pacari – Piura 70%

More articles by »
Written by: Alex Rast

Probably the purest Piura yet. While undoubtedly a fine bar, it still doesn’t really “wow”. Instead, it brings very unusual flavours that make it more of an interesting bar than a great bar. It’s probably fair to say, though, that Pacari has done about the best job possible with the origin, so any failings are more a matter of the ultimate potential of the bean itself than of the interpretation.

From the moment this bar is out of the wrapper, it can’t be mistaken, with its colour so light it could easily be a middle-strength milk bar. Pacari hasn’t produced an immaculate finish here; the bar does look a bit rustic in overall appearance, but it will still produce more admiring glances than it will frowns. The aroma is certainly more powerful than the colour would suggest, and with a definitely spicy character, cinnamon and cedar with wine, so that it’s almost like a mulled wine overall. Hints of earthy and coffee strike a heavier note, but hints of strawberry also give a lighter note as well, so that the indications are that this should have a very balanced flavour indeed.

The flavour itself, however, is a bit of a disappointment, if also a total surprise. First comes a totally overwhelming note of crème fraîche, rather reminiscent of older Domoris but slightly flatter.A brief raisin hint has more depth and then the flavour becomes more pungent, cedar and cinnamon more in tune with the aroma. A more tannic woody finish is disturbing, however, the length of the flavour is completely extraordinary, especially given the start, continuing to manifest a fruity wood like old wine barrels.

The melt is somewhat problematic, for although there’s nothing wrong with the smooth particle size, its drier than one might like and as a result reluctant to melt completely; here is a bar that could really do with more cocoa butter. That, however, is the only true technical flaw in what is otherwise a very nice chocolate. Taken as a whole this bar will probably appeal strongly to those looking for something new and very different in chocolate, and those who place a high value on originality. For the classicist, however, it will represent a bit too much of a surprise to be great; like a Mondrian compared to a Raphael. What Piura really might be is the ultimate in concept chocolate.



About the Author

Alex Rast
Alex Rast is a long-time chocolate experimenter, taster and part-time consultant to chocolate companies. Starting in 1990 with early experiments himself in making chocolate, he quickly moved into evaluating chocolates in commercial production and assisting other companies in improving process. Over the course of many years he has evaluated over 700 distinct chocolate bars. He is one of the earliest reviewers for SeventyPercent and has helped to define and systematise the ratings system. In addition to bar chocolate, he also experiments with chocolate baking and the formulation of "canonical" recipes for classic chocolate items.




 
 

 
Drinks and Specials Hamper, Duffy’s

Seventy%’s 2013 Chocolate Christmas List

Short of Christmas gift ideas? Choose from our chocolate gift list or buy a last minute tasting course gift certificate.
by Seventy%
0

 
 
DSC_7829

Chocolate Tasting Certificate

Sign up for our new Chocolate Tasting Certificate courses - your route to expert taster in 3 levels.
by Seventy%
0

 
 
390589_462914460456841_547384378_n_cr

An evening with Maricel Presilla

A Chocolate Week special tasting with Maricel Presilla, author of 'The New Taste of Chocolate' and Award-winning Cuban-American chef.
by Seventy%
0

 

 
ChocolateTreeMadagascarraw7090gcropped

The Chocolate Tree – Madagascar Raw 70%

The Chocolate Tree ventures boldly into territory formerly almost the exclusive domain of Pacari with a raw chocolate that one has reason to believe may be classified as “fine”. It’s even more refreshing to se...
by Alex Rast
2

 
Seventy% supports the International Chocolate Awards
 
Askinosie Del Tambo Ecuador 70pc & nibs enrobed Cru Sauvage Bolivia Felchlin

Directly Traded collection from Geert Vercruysse

Belgian chocolatier Geert Vercruysse creates a unique collection of ganaches using directly traded chocolate, just in time for the birth of new industry organisation, Direct Cacao.
by Martin Christy
1

 




0 Comments


Be the first to comment!


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>


Latest reviews

  1. The Chocolate Tree – Madagascar Raw 70% Alex Rast, 15 Jun 2013
  2. The Chocolate Tree – Ecuador 82% Alex Rast, 14 Dec 2012
  3. Friis-Holm – Chuno Double Turned Alex Rast, 3 Dec 2012
  4. Friis-Holm – Chuno Triple Turned Alex Rast, 18 Nov 2012
  5. Chapon – Chuao Alex Rast, 18 Nov 2012

@Seventypercent Twitter feed

Search site