Reviews

October 17, 2012

Red Star Chocolate – Ocumare 72%

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Written by: Alex Rast

One word for this bar: BOLD. For those who like an ultra-powerful, dominating chocolate, this is the one to get, with a power and strength that eclipses even Chuao. Indeed, the flavour profile isn’t too far off Chuao either, being definitely on the treacley side; an evening chocolate, to be sure. It’s a chocolate that speaks both of style and of bean, the Red Star style clearly showing but the typical heavy, somewhat earthy Ocumare nature likewise being felt. It might not appeal to those seeking the utmost in delicacy, but as a strong, forceful chocolate, it’s a first-rate effort.

Rather dark roast is evident immediately upon removing the bar from the wrapper, with its very dark colour, although a dark red-brown rather than a dark purple-brown. Finish is very close to immaculate, even the back side of the bar showing only hints of where a few bubbles might have formed. It has the clean look of a chocolate processed to precision standards.

The aroma is all about blunt force, dense and saturated, with liquorice and raisin prominent in the beginning, then coffee, before very iron notes appear, molasses and even meaty. There’s impressive control despite the power, even if the aroma is quite one-sided in overall characteristics, but this is going to be a bar that explores the extremes of a flavour rather than one that tries to harmonise all flavours. Still, it’s the strength that leaves the lingering impression, and almost gives a sense of trepidation to tasting.

Interestingly, the flavour actually starts out lighter and brighter, with blackberry leading, then raisin. Powerful, yes, but not yet heavy. An interlude follows with a hint of mushroom overlaid on what is a very clean, pure chocolatey flavour, and then the mighty notes of the aroma pound in. Liquorice, coffee, and molasses all pour down in waves, although bizarrely there is somehow room for a slight grassy hint to materialise. But still, this bar is mostly about that powerful, long-lasting finish that never becomes flat or tiresome but just keeps sweeping over you. Texture, meanwhile, is good if workmanlike, smooth, perhaps a bit dry, nothing particularly to get excited about.

It’s that flavour that’s exciting. To this reviewer, at least, flavours in the dark, treacley domain are his favourite within the chocolate spectrum, and with such good exposition, Ocumare 72% will inevitably be received favourably. Others might not be so impressed – time will tell – but here is a bar that’s making a strong statement. It’s exciting to see chocolate makers experiment with extremes of flavour rather than go for a balanced but perhaps unoriginal version, and this bar vindicates Red Star’s patient approach to process. Equally, though, it establishes Duffy’s strength: in powerful, distinctive origins such as this, or the Indio Rojo – this is where he might focus, leaving milder, more retreating beans to a different group. A first-rate job and a good way to introduce a new season of chocolates.



About the Author

Alex Rast
Alex Rast is a long-time chocolate experimenter, taster and part-time consultant to chocolate companies. Starting in 1990 with early experiments himself in making chocolate, he quickly moved into evaluating chocolates in commercial production and assisting other companies in improving process. Over the course of many years he has evaluated over 700 distinct chocolate bars. He is one of the earliest reviewers for SeventyPercent and has helped to define and systematise the ratings system. In addition to bar chocolate, he also experiments with chocolate baking and the formulation of "canonical" recipes for classic chocolate items.




 
 

 
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One Comment


  1. The Dominican Republic is the source for the Conacado chocolate bar and Chocodrops (73%) and other products. Dagoba obtains its Dominican cacao through the Conacado Cooperative, a 9,300-member Fair Trade cooperative, which is incidentally the largest organic Fair Trade co-op in the world. Conacado has implemented a plant nursery, arranges workshops that teach processing techniques and organic farming, reserves funds to aid in recovery after hurricanes and even sends members to international trade shows for marketing purposes.



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