The post Friis Holm – Indio Rojo 70 appeared first on Seventy%.

Simply unwrapping this bar leaves little doubt as to the maker Friis-Holm is working with on these ‘own label’ bars. The mold, save for the name itself, is clearly that of Bonnat and the hallmarks of this well regarded maker are written well beyond the shape alone.  The colour is very attractive being medium brown and quite light with reddish highlights.  The finish is close to perfect also with a mirror shine, minimal swirling and a sharp, clean, high pitched snap.

The aroma comes across as notably subtle and with a certain creamy nuttiness. There are other notes on show here but they are delicate and fleeting; faint honey, a hint of undefined citrus and wood/leathery back-notes.  This isn’t an aroma that instantly draws you in but there is little to speak against it.

On the palette the flavours remain subtle but with a richly creamy undertone that adds considerable body to the mix. On delivery it is the almost oaken, woody notes that speak first before some light plum/yellow raisin and honeyed suggestions take over in the mid palette.  There is a slightly troublesome earthy, moss/mushroom note in the background but it remains faint throughout and fails to distract from what is essentially a creamy, deeply chocolately profile.  In the finish the tannins start to draw in alongside a little leather and a hint of walnut.  Texture, perhaps predictably considering the producer, is near flawless with a medium to fast paced melt and enviable smoothness.  I can’t help thinking however that this textural perfection has come at the loss of some intensity/character and that lower cocoa butter content and a less aggressive treatment might have helped to give a greater sense of the beans involved.

While I still believe we are yet to see the best from these Honduran Trinitarios this is clearly another well handled, highly enjoyable bar under the Friis-Holm label.  It is in keeping with the previous, Nicaraguan focused, releases and while  it certainly isn’t the most distinctive of bars the profile is well balanced and creamy with an emphasis on refinement that will please many a chocolate lover who perhaps isn’t in the mood for a Madagascan, citrus bomb.

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The appearance is typical of Amano’s recent batches being quite light in colour and really very impressive.  The wonderful shine and clean, medium pitched snap attest to a very fine temper with only a little mould unevenness and the odd bubble to draw any negative attention.

On the nose this is hugely interesting; an intriguing sourness in the form of grapefruit, sharp raspberry/cherry and bitter almonds takes centre stage. There are deeper notes sitting behind with fresh leather and a hint of damp wood. The aroma does show a certain smokey background quality but as I have read in the past, and was recently highlighted to me by a highly knowledgeable chocolate producer, this can come from phenolic compounds present during fermentation, particularly from over-fermentation, so there can be reasons besides the method of drying for such notes.  It’s all quite impressive as it remains indefinably characteristic of Papua New Guinea but without the often overt smoke.

The palette carries on from the nose with the main thrust of the profile coming from a wave of acidity with notes of sweetened grapefruit juice, gooseberries, sour apple and lime rind. These notes slowly soften into red currant and raspberries but remain fairly sharp and intense. I find all this quite wonderful but some may consider it a little unbalanced and maybe even slightly jarring.  There are other, more subtle, notes sitting behind the mix of sourish fruits; some faint anise and leather and that ever present but somehow illusive touch of smoke always, happily, playing second fiddle to the rest of the profile. There is also a curious salty quality that I have come across in bars produced with Papau New Guinea’s cacao before though it is difficult to pin down. The finish is a little short, faintly herbal and extremely clean, leaving the palette feeling fresh and with only the most restrained of tannins in evidence.

The mouth-feel is good, being rather smooth and medium paced in the melt. There is a certain fudginess in evidence when chewed but overall there is little to speak against it.

All very good and all very Amano then, the roast is light and the flavours highly demonstrative and forceful, in fact this is almost certainly the most intense bar that Amano have released so far and certainly the most exuberant take on this origin I have yet tasted. Those that have read many of my previous reviews with be aware that I do have a natural pre disposition to bright, fairly acidic flavour profiles in chocolate however and with that in mind I can certainly see why this bar has, so far, divided opinion among some tasters. It could be considered quite unbalanced as, unlike Amano’s Madagascar for example, there is a certain lack of notes to contrast with, and lend restraint to the bracing acidity on show and with this in mind it doesnt quite reach the hights of Amano’s best work. However for my aforementioned tastes this works well and is a highly enjoyable addition to an ever evolving range.

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The post Amano – Morobe 70% appeared first on Seventy%.

The finish of the bar is good but certainly not perfect with the shine being quite uneven and the back showing a fair amount of pitting and swirling.  The mould depth is very even however, something that is often not the case with small batch producers from the U.S.  The colour is quite dark but with a certain red hue that adds interest. The snap is sharp and even, heightening expectations.

The aroma isn’t the most forceful, being somewhat flighty and un-sustained, what is there however is very interesting and a little unusual.  The first thing that’s strikes you is a soft, slightly molasses tinged sweetness that flirts with a hint of smoke and then seems to calm back down quickly into light coffee and caramel.  Set against these suggestions of a fairly deep roast sits a lovely cherry and raspberry led fruitiness.  An unusual combination that reminds me slightly of Pralus more lightly handled offerings.  There is a touch of plastic in the background which is a little troubling and could be as a result of the simplistic packaging or perhaps the moulds themselves.

On the palette, and after a brief flash of red currant and stone fruit, it is, perhaps predictably, the deeper notes that make the strongest first impression; pure, richly roasted cocoa with touches of brown sugar, coffee, toasted herbs and a little dusty cinnamon take centre stage at the start of the melt.  A little time brings about a greater sense of balance as the gentle raspberry/cherry fruitiness, found on the nose drifts into frame.  In the mid palette the differing sides of the profile have found a pleasing union with delicately acidic fruit, slightly earthy sweetness and a thread of roasted bitterness all being on show.  There is no great complexity in the finish but those that enjoy a pleasing duality of deeply roasted notes that leave at least a suggestion of the high notes intact will love this.

The melt is slow to medium paced and quite smooth, if a little fudgy perhaps.  It certainly doesn’t have the refinement of the very best European or American producers but considering the scale and relative youth of the operation this is impressive work.

The American fine chocolate scene is hugely vibrant and innovative at the moment and has been so for some time now.  Potomac is certainly a worthy addition and I would encourage anyone interested in fine chocolate to sample their work.  The style clearly embraces a somewhat deeper roast and lighter use of cocoa butter than the likes of Amano, Patric, etc and, though it never gets into darker Pralus or Willies Cacao style territory, this may have eroded some of the high notes. However with that being said it is very hard, particularly when dealing with a rarely tasted origin, to be quite sure of the true reason for this. Regardless, this is interesting, promising work and a new producer that many will follow with interest.

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The bar is well finished and with a fairly light, medium brown colour and good shine. There is little to no swirling or bubbling and the snap is clean and crisp.  All is as would be expected from a highly refined and well-regarded producer.

The aroma really opens the show here, being rich and full bodied. Golden sugar and lightly roasted coffee sit alongside the richly honeyed fruit tones that I always think of being classically Beni; light plums, fig jam, some fresh strawberry and the faintest hint of papaya.  The balance of this heady mix of aromatics is unquestionable, as is the desire to taste.

Taken onto the palette it is, perhaps predictably, the sweet honey that comes to the fore, soon being joined by tropical fruit notes reminiscent of Pakistani mango, backed by a deep, pure chocolate.  In the mid palette the fig jam and plum found in the aroma resurface but are lent a level of freshness by a little strawberry and cream.  The finish takes a turn into rich mocha, tobacco leaf and malted toffee with just the faintest of tannins.  This is a sweetly fruity, honeyed profile then with a superbly balanced, well integrated range of flavours that are rich and intoxicating, while still calm and harmonious.

The melt is medium paced and flawlessly smooth but feels rather thick and cloying.  This is something I often associate with Felchlin and is not usually to my taste.  On this occasion however, set against such a lovely profile, it fails to distract with any great significance.

Original Beans are clearly doing some commendable work within the growing countries and twinned with a respected chocolate maker there is little doubt regarding the potential.  Here they have clearly lived up to that promise, having produced the finest take on Beni I have tasted.  The greatest success here is in drawing out a range of notes whilst leaving intact the richly chocolatey, honeyed tones that characterise these beautiful beans.

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The aroma is soft and gently fruity with top notes of ripe apricot/nectarine, maraschino cherries and soft violet sitting alongside touches of mint, vanilla and melted marshmallow.  Quite reminiscent of Amano’s Montanya overall. There are also some spicy back-notes and just a faint hint of something slightly meaty which may indicate some problems with post-harvest processing.  It is incredibly subtle however and fails to detract with any significance from what is a beautiful and understated nose.

On the palette the comparisons with the Montanya are never far away. Defined stone fruit notes in the form of apricot, then hints of cherry, tangerine and a touch of fresh cream. Some of Amano’s typical floral tones arrive among the fruit, jasmine and a little rose perhaps.  In the mid palette the spices hinted at in the nose; clove and a light touch of cardamom begin to draw in and bring with them a very firm and, when set against such a soft profile, intrusively tannic grip. Heading towards the finish things are very woody indeed, all on cedar, pencil shavings and green tea with little of the fruity/floral complexities on show earlier in the melt.

The mouth-feel is very fine and as such, in line with Amano’s other recent releases; smooth and of medium speed but just a touch grainer than the likes of Cluizel or Bonnat.

An interesting bar that displays a level of complexity and a delicacy of touch that can now be considered characteristic of Amano. There are certainly some beautiful notes on show here but the intrusive tannins and woody, drying finish prevent the Cuyagua from reaching the heights of Amano’s broadly similar and well regarded Montanya. Well worth trying however and I wouldn’t be surprised if future batches surpass this one.

The post Amano – Cuyagua 70% appeared first on Seventy%.

The finish inspires confidence; the light colour often associated with the origin is on full display, with a very fine temper and a clean, high pitched snap. This might be the best looking bar I have had from Amano. The surface offers a good shine with few blemishes aside from the odd tiny bubble and some swirling that can be expected where there is no addition of soy lecithin.

On the nose there is an immediate and strikingly balanced complexity in the form of refined high notes of raspberry/strawberry and lime on a bed of fresh tobacco leaves, subtle mint, tarragon and other fresh herbs. With time and upon snapping some deeper notes of blueberry, plumb and a light woodiness also begin to show themselves. This is a carefully handled and beautifully weighted aromatic profile with little of the prominent vanilla sometimes found in Amano’s work.

Taken onto the palette there is a fresh, creamy softness at first, the strawberry sits at the fore surrounded by a mix of herbs/tobacco that flirts with becoming mildly floral and heathery for just a moment, before a wave of citrus begins to take centre stage. There is acidity now to be sure but it remains delicate enough to avoid dominating proceedings; lime, hints of sweet tangerine mixed with fresh cream, a sprig of mint, strawberry and subtle touches of sweet balsamic find a near enough perfect union in the mid palette. The finish is quite light and fresh with restrained tannins, hints of cedar, an unexpected touch of pecan and faint echoes of fruit.

The mouth-feel is as good as I have come across with Amano. The flavour delivery is clearly excellent, taking advantage of a medium paced melt that while it is perhaps just a little grainier than some, is only a shade away from the very best.

Amano seem to have produced the definitive benchmark for a Madagascan bar then; the real genius of this take on the origin, aside from the undoubted quality of the beans, being in the handling of the sheer intensity this origin can so often display. I personally adore the raw, bracing and deeply intense Madagascans offered by some other producers but there can little doubt that they are frequently a little unrefined and can be anything but subtle. What Amano have done here is to retain much of the citrus and a perfectly weighted level of acidity but twinned that with a contrasting, balanced softness that succeeds in showing a high degree of complexity in both aroma and flavour. Quite an achievement indeed, and a masterpiece of chocolate making.

The post Amano – Madagascar 70% appeared first on Seventy%.

Any worries that this bar may have been past best are completely dispelled by the aroma, which is hugely characterful and instantly recognisable with a surge of juicy, ripe and sweet citrus. Others have mentioned Bergamot and while that certainly can’t be argued with, I would add papaya and a whole range of sweet oranges like clementines or tangerines. There are floral back notes reminiscent of jasmine, something I often associate with Amano, alongside some soft nutmeg and cardamom. I have never come across a chocolate with such a powerful and distinctive aroma as this.

The palette largely mirrors the nose with the orangey citrus notes being prominent, alongside a greater floral presence than might have been expected; the jasmine now being joined by a little violet and a delicate hint of clover honey/orange blossom tea. The mid palette sees the spices return in the form of more nutmeg but with the citrus continuing to dominate the overall profile. Into the finish things take a turn into firm tannins and unexpected nutty suggestions reminiscent of cashew but the sweet orange is still ever-present in the considerable length. The melt is a little below Amano’s best, a touch chalky and slightly grainy but far from poor considering the delicacy of production needed to harness the flavours on offer here.

After identifying beans that could lead to such a powerfully distinct set of aromatics it must have been a considerable challenge to then to draw out those flavours in the final chocolate. The result is a bar of rare individuality that re-defines the idea of a demonstrative note in fine chocolate and shows just how complex and interesting certain beans, fermented in a certain way, can be. It could be said that this bar is a little unbalanced but that would, I think, be missing the point of creating such a chocolate.

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