May 16, 2004
I’ve noticed that all the Domori chocolate I’ve tried recently (Porcelana, Chili, Puro, Carenero Superior) has a rather waxy texture. It’s not necessarily a bad thing, it’s just different, but it takes some getting used to. I haven’t been able to do a good comparison between Domori’s and Amedei’s Porcelanas in part because the texture of the Domori just throws me off; it also seems to alter when the flavor of the chocolate expresses itself compared to the Amedei. Has anyone else noticed this? Is it just some part of Domori’s cultish vision of the perfect chocolate?
July 31, 2006
Domori have this ideas of ‘low impact’ chocolate production. Everything they do is based on the initial bean quality, then they simply roast, shell, nib and grind the beans. The conching is only for 12 hours. The idea is to do as little as possible so as not change the flavour or health properties of the bean.
I think this does give their chocolate a different texture to anyone else’s and this does take some getting used to. This might be why Domori don’t get so much attention from the fine chocolate mainstream, their chocolate is just not in the Valrhona couverture mould (excuse the pun, and by the way – I like both types equally!)
The waxiness is quite common with chocolate with a high criollo content, it is one of the properties of criollo … Very pure criollos also have a ‘cream’ note, which is again noticeable in Domori’s bars – particularly Puertomar/Ocumare 61. (Domori describe this as ‘bread and butter and jam’ – I am sure that sounds more flattering in Italian!)
May 16, 2004
I haven’t found other Criollo bars to be nearly as waxy or creamy – e.g. Amedei Chuao, Amedei Porcelana, Chocovic Ocumare, El Rey’s Carenero Superior line. (Though the El Rey seems to have other reasons for not being so creamy.) I’ve found that Amedei’s Porcelana has more texture (and, I’d even say, flavor!) in common with their own Chuao than with Domori’s Porcelana.
Flattering or not, I do agree with Domori’s description of “bread and jam”, though it always surprises me when I taste that.