February 14, 2006
I just got a chance to try El Rey's new bar, Macuro. The chocolate is of the Rio Caribe bean and hails from a company that I have appreciated in the past. However, I am beginning to wonder whether the labeling is honest. Take this Macuro for instance: supposedly 70% cacao with 12 grams of sugar/40grams a serving. The sugar content simply must be higher. There is such a 'candy-like' quality to the bar, that I simply cannot fathom how less than 1/3 of the bar could be sugar. Has anyone else tried it? The taste/texture are similar to Gran Saman, but more reminiscent of Chocovic's offerings. Quite one-dimensional and flat. It smells like a candy shoppe.
July 31, 2006
My understanding is that El Rey chocolate is finished by El Rey from liquor made for them in a Nestlé plant in Venuezuela, or some similar arrangement. Although many companies have tried this approach, liquor produced in a large plant is always going to be a bit industrial. Having lost control of the roast, the chocolate can never be that good. I think that would explain the 'candy-like' quality of the bar.
It's also possible the cocoa butter content is quite high, and this will tend to make the bar seem sweeter. El Rey has always had something of candy shop / earthy mould about it. With some batches it's bearable, others not so. I still think their Icoa is one of the best white's around, if that's anything of a redemption!
On a general note, I wouldn't say that the liquor route is unworkable, but you really do need specialist small batch roasting and oversight of the process. Despite the claims of some companies, very few have achieved this in my opinion.
February 14, 2006
This explains why the bar tastes like Hershey's Kisses/Nestle Chips. A big piece of the puzzle drops into place! I still wonder as to the honesty of the labeling, though. Is it possible that El Rey is passing off industrial foresteros sourced from elsewhere as trinitarios?
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