Hi Sean,
My understanding is that El Rey chocolate is finished by El Rey from liquor made for them in a Nestlé plant in Venuezuela, or some similar arrangement. Although many companies have tried this approach, liquor produced in a large plant is always going to be a bit industrial. Having lost control of the roast, the chocolate can never be that good. I think that would explain the ‘candy-like’ quality of the bar.
It’s also possible the cocoa butter content is quite high, and this will tend to make the bar seem sweeter. El Rey has always had something of candy shop / earthy mould about it. With some batches it’s bearable, others not so. I still think their Icoa is one of the best white’s around, if that’s anything of a redemption!
On a general note, I wouldn’t say that the liquor route is unworkable, but you really do need specialist small batch roasting and oversight of the process. Despite the claims of some companies, very few have achieved this in my opinion.
Martin Christy
Editor
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