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Who really makes chocolate?
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theobroma
MIlwaukee, USA
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January 14, 2005 - 9:10 pm
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Hi
I think 'to make one's own chocolate' means to have control of all or most of the process. Ie, at least from the nibs, or preferably from the fermentation, onwards.
Remember, the process is roughly as follows:
growing, harvesting
fermentation
drying
roasting
shelling
grinding
(lots of mechanized stuff)
conching
tempering
serving.

So, growing through drying or roasting usually happens at the plantation. The rest usually happens at a factory somewhere in europe. Smart chocolatiers will oversee the fermentation, drying, and roasting, as these steps cause chemical changes that are very influential to the taste of the final product.
hope this helps
kyle

Oh no! My Agustus!

Oh no! My Agustus!
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Masur
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January 26, 2005 - 8:57 am
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Also Bonnat use cocoa butter from someone else. It comes from different French companies and the Ivory Coast. I don't think we are able to reveal all the secrets behind the chocolate companies. I would say Bonnat makes their own chocolate.

"Porcelana: The Holy Grail of Pure Criollos" (Marieel E. Presilla)

"Porcelana: The Holy Grail of Pure Criollos" (Maricel E. Presilla)
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Sebastian
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January 26, 2005 - 12:45 pm
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If the company isn't making cocoa powder, they're buying their butter from someone 😎

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Masur
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February 22, 2005 - 8:10 pm
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Jacques Torres Chocolate in New York is a company that recently started making their own chocolate. A small bean to bar company.
Read more in this article:
[url]http://newyorkmetro.com/nymetro/urban/seasons/fallpreview2004/9760/[/url]

This is the source where i found a link to the article:
[url]http://www.chocolatierschool.com/[/url]

A link to Jacques Torres Chocolate:
[url]http://mrchocolate.com/[/url]

"Porcelana: The Holy Grail of Pure Criollos" (Maricel E. Presilla)

"Porcelana: The Holy Grail of Pure Criollos" (Maricel E. Presilla)
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Hans-Peter Rot
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February 23, 2005 - 3:42 am
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quote:


Originally posted by alex_h

el rey and santander? i checked their sites but couldn't get any specifics.
btw, does el rey only use carenero superior? i saw somewhere that they make a rio caribe bar as well.


Yes, El Rey makes three chocolats that are Rio Caribe, but they are couverture, not bar form. They are as follows:

Irapa 40.5% milk, Cariaco 60.5%, and Macuro 70%

And because I know how inquisitive you are, alex [;)] this is a Trinitario grown along the coast of both the Caribbean Sea and the delta of the Orinoco River. Also, Irapa contains brown sugar and malt, just like Valrhona's Le Lacte 41%. It actually produces a nice flavor, albeit one heavily reminiscent of caramel. Interesting nonetheless.

The San Joaquin Private Reserve, however, I think is an Ocumare, but I have not seen it for quite some time. I should have grabbed some while I could.

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Hans-Peter Rot
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February 23, 2005 - 3:52 am
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quote:


Originally posted by masur

Jacques Torres Chocolate in New York is a company that recently started making their own chocolate. A small bean to bar company.
Read more in this article:
[url]http://newyorkmetro.com/nymetro/urban/seasons/fallpreview2004/9760/[/url]

"Porcelana: The Holy Grail of Pure Criollos" (Maricel E. Presilla)


I was at a local mall several weeks ago, and I visited the Origins store, and lo and behold, several boxes of Torres' bars were amongst the perfumed displays of lotions, hand creams, and shampoos. Amazing. Well, I refused to buy a bar not because they cost $5.50, but because the heavy veil of pungent scents portended, or at least threatened, of chocolate tainted with flavors that were not intentionally infused into it (his bars are all flavored). The flavors sounded interesting, though.

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Masur
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May 14, 2005 - 9:19 am
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Hawaiian Vintage Chocolate seems to be a bean to bar company. What about Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory?

[url]http://www.originalhawaiianchocolatefactory.com/[/url] [url]http://www.hawaiianchocolate.com/[/url]

"Porcelana: The Holy Grail of Pure Criollos" (Maricel E. Presilla)

"Porcelana: The Holy Grail of Pure Criollos" (Maricel E. Presilla)
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Hans-Peter Rot
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May 14, 2005 - 5:21 pm
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Hawaiian Vintage produces from bean, I believe. I've seen a television show that featured them and they took the viewers through their "farms" and factories. By the looks of the other company's web-site, it seems as if they do...or at least that's certainly what the implications are. You can never be certain, though.

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Martin Christy
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May 16, 2005 - 8:30 pm
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I'm not so convinced about Hawaiian Vintage - it's been suggested some of the images of plantations are actually shots of Venezuela, and that they don't actually make much chocolate there, and in any case the quality of beans on Hawaii is pretty low - mostly Forastero.

Martin Christy
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Martin Christy Editor www.seventypercent.com
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gap
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October 27, 2005 - 7:44 am
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quote:


Originally posted by masur

Two new bean to bar companies.
Haigh's Chocolates is an Australian Company:
[url]http://www.haighschocolates.com/[/url]


Haigh's have just released a new 70% dark chocolate - once again made from bean all the way through to bar

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seneca
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October 28, 2005 - 3:33 am
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Hawaiian Vintage is indeed pretty much a scam, but Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory is the real deal. Bob & Pam Cooper do most everything themselves over there on the big island, growing a forastero varietal on the Kona side.

Although the list is already long, here are some additions:
Plantations
Dagoba
Blanxart
(and I know these are industrial, but still:)
Blommer
Hershey's
Mars

Anbody know about Hachez?

http://bittersweetcafe.blogspot.com http://www.bittersweetcafe.com
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seneca
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October 28, 2005 - 3:41 am
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Just one more thing on Hawaiian cacao:
There are actually some very complex and delicious non-forasteros (not that there's anything wrong with forastero :-) growing on various Hawaiian islands right now. (I've got some in my kitchen as we speak...) Hawaii does present some interesting challenges to the chocolatier, however---fermentation temperature for one---due to the subtropical climate with lower nighttime temps than the average equatorial site.

For what it's worth, I think it's a growing region that will become very intersting in the long run as folks figure out how to get the most out of the unique climate there.

http://bittersweetcafe.blogspot.com http://www.bittersweetcafe.com
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Hans-Peter Rot
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October 28, 2005 - 4:28 am
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I'm no expert on Hawaiian cacao, but I think I have read articles about greenhouses in Hawaii that grow cacao trees specifically because of the lower temperatures that occur here. Admittedly, I've never investigated the matter but will do so very shortly. I have a friend who frequently visits Hawaii because she's good friends with Don Ho, so maybe I can ask for a pod or two. How exactly did you acquire yours?

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seneca
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October 29, 2005 - 8:01 pm
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The trees themselves thrive in Hawaii and fruit wonderfully, even at elevations up to ~2000 feet or so. Most of the climate issues come into play during the chocolate making process (after harvest)...

http://bittersweetcafe.blogspot.com http://www.bittersweetcafe.com
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Hans-Peter Rot
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November 1, 2005 - 2:23 am
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Have you tasted Hawaiian Vintage? Emeril praises the stuff...but then again he swears by pork fat.

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seneca
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November 15, 2005 - 6:52 am
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I tasted the Hawaiian Vintage stuff a while back and was not favorable impressed. On the Emeril front, I caught a bit of one of his shows where he was talking about chocolate recently and there was a scary amount of misinformation being thrown around. He should definitely either stop doing chocolate-related shows or get some schooling from the seventy percent gang...

On the topic of pork fat I'm going to stay studiously neutral :-)

http://bittersweetcafe.blogspot.com http://www.bittersweetcafe.com
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execsearch
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December 7, 2005 - 3:46 pm
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I find it interesting that such a fuss can be implied about the use of highly reproduceable cocoa butter or bases from the big ingredients multinationals e.g. ADM, Cargill, Barry-Callebaut.
In my experience these are excellent starting blocks to build on. While value can be added to a commercial product through a rareity component from unusual sourcing or god forbid "organic" labeling, it is also possible through blending of good products some of which are specifically designed for the "lower quality" mass markets. (sorry please excuse the pun -was not intended)
Expression of originality, richness, complexity and finesse are also feasable even if you dont make your own cocoa butter.
There should be nothing wrong even with using a good CHEMICAL EMULSIFIER or two to enhance shine, slip or flavour release as the melt charecteristics are modified. We shouldnt knock the poor food scientists just because they are using additives which would likely result in being permanently bannned from forums like BBC4's food program !! What is possibly worse is when labelling lypolyzed butter fat as just "organic" butter and deceiving the consumer into thinking that no functionality is introduced with it. This actually can phenomenal taste and texture impact.

For my day job I also get involved in head hunting across Europe.

Does anyone know of a top rate fine chocolate confectioner who could lead an R&D team for a lvery arge multinational group? They need to be have good hands on choclate mass experiences and be able to provide the leadership for all markets internationally from both a technical and creative perspective.

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Martin Christy
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January 1, 2006 - 9:48 pm
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Undoubtedly it would be better if artisanal chocolate makers produced their own cocoa butter, from the same bean source as they use for their chocolate. Some have recognised this and either don't add any cocoa butter to the mass, or are moving towards producing their own.

Sorry though, you can't interest me in any chemicals to enhance anything! Use better beans, properly treated and you will get much better results anyway. Fundamentally I believe consumers are being cheated when additives and possessing are used to make up for poor quality starting ingredients. This is about economics and profit, not quality. Then the marketing kicks in to tell the consumer they are getting 'the best'. ("Now that's what chocolate's supposed to taste like" ... not!)

They'll always be a mass market, but the wider industry needs to wake up to what 'fine chocolate' means, once the interested consumer segment understands it.

Martin Christy
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Martin Christy Editor www.seventypercent.com
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annabel
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January 5, 2006 - 10:07 am
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Chocovic also, in Spain

Marcolini has a very little production that only represents 2% of his total needs.
For the rest, he uses Callebaut

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oz_choc
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February 10, 2006 - 1:05 am
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In an earlier post, somebody listed Plantations as making their own chocolate. This is incorrect. Vintage Chocolate (owner of the Plantations brand) is located in New Jersey, USA. Their chocolate is manufactured by Tulicorp in Ecuador.

Furthermore, when I visited the Tulicorp factory last October, they neither roasted their own beans, nor pressed their own cocoa butter (although they were in the process of getting their own roasting operation up and running).

Sam

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