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which chocolate for ice cream
March 15, 2010
2:33 pm
Gracie
Chippenham, United Kingdom
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June 23, 2007
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We’re pondering adding ice cream to our offering in our shop,and I’m curious as to whether a high or lower cocoa butter ratio would provide the best result.
My instinct says to go with a high cocoa content but relitively low cocoa butter to prevent extreme hardness.
i love Valrhona’s Guanaja but think it may be too hard once frozen.
Alternatives are a high viscosity (low cocoa butter ratio) single origin from Ecuador, El Rey’s apamate or Grenadan Chocolate company’s 70% (pricy but nice!)

Any opinions?

On another front, I’m on the lookout for a used batch freezer!

March 15, 2010
11:00 pm
gap
Melbourne, Australia
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October 20, 2005
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Depends on your recipe. As you suggest, all the ingredients for the ice cream need to be balanced, including the fats. You need something with a strong flavour to come through as “chocolatey” – I typically use a 64-66% range. The best way to do it is find a flavour you like and then tweak your recipe around that.

March 16, 2010
2:42 am
Alex Rast
Manchester, United Kingdom
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October 13, 2009
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quote:


Originally posted by Gracie

We’re pondering adding ice cream to our offering in our shop,and I’m curious as to whether a high or lower cocoa butter ratio would provide the best result.
My instinct says to go with a high cocoa content but relitively low cocoa butter to prevent extreme hardness.


You are correct. Too high a cocoa butter as you suggest only increases the fat content – and the result is like Ben&Jerry’s, i.e. chisel-it-out-of-the-carton. Meanwhile, yes, you need high cocoa content or the flavour will be extremely mild: think about what the dilution factor will be in ice cream and it’s obvious you need maximum power.

quote:


i love Valrhona’s Guanaja but think it may be too hard once frozen.
Alternatives are a high viscosity (low cocoa butter ratio) single origin from Ecuador, El Rey’s apamate or Grenadan Chocolate company’s 70% (pricy but nice!)


Guanaja is OK but suboptimal. Cocoa butter content is on the high side though not extreme.

The optimum choice is El Rey Gran Saman.

Note the blend! NOT Apamate, which is too mild and too high cocoa butter to be ideal. Another possibility, again very expensive but worth considering, is Domori Carenero Superior with a similarly low cocoa butter content and high-power flavour. I think you’re also noticing that, in general, the Carenero bean works best with ice cream. Its spicy general character helps it to stand out, unlike fruity flavours which tend to be retreating and earthy ones that end up really tasting muddy.

Alex Rast
Alex_Rast_Alternate@hushmail.com

Alex Rast Alex_Rast_Alternate@hushmail.com
March 16, 2010
7:47 am
Gracie
Chippenham, United Kingdom
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June 23, 2007
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Thanks for the replies…I was hoping you would chip in Alex, as I know you’ve done some extensive “research” (hard task but someone has to do it!!).
I had forgotten about Gran Saman…of course, that would be perfect. I’ll start experimenting. I have the honeycomb flavour nailed and I’m also working on an ice cream version of our Sea Salt Praline….well I have to do something creative to stop me going Easter Egg Gaga!

March 26, 2010
8:02 am
chocolatero
london
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September 5, 2004
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You should also try Coeur de Guanaja, it is a defatted version of guanaja especially made for ice cream