April 29, 2004
I don't know when I last felt about a chocolate as I do about Domori's newly reformulated IL100%. I don't know how they've done it. Never first in line to write a review, I must in this case spread the word.
Domori has created so many different 100% bars over the last few years, ranging from the IL100% to a Kamba bar. They've made 100% bars of each of their crus and even their criollos. So they have blended and left pure, but never have they reached this peak. At least not to my knowledge or taste, not even in the 100% criollo bars that were part of their wooden boxes years ago.
Open up the package and you are greeted by an intense chocolatey smell that dances. You smell Domori's scent there immediately, but stronger than in other incarnations. A sign of good things to come, but I am wary having been often disappointed by Domori of late. Is there often an off taste in even their best bars recently? Something gone wrong with fermentation? I don't know, maybe it's just my weird tongue.
So, first there is the smell. Take a piece in you mouth and here starts something I haven't experienced before. After a few small bites to break up the piece, the chocolate melts as no Domori has melted before, pure silken cream coats the mouth. Not thick and sticky and not immediately turning into a chocolatey “drink”, but somewhere in the perfect middle. But wait, I haven't yet mentioned the taste.
This is where the bar really takes off: At the front I worry shortly that what I call Domori's offness is inherent here too. But it is very tame and slightly acidic going right into floral, deftly avoiding that off and taming it beautifully. Where there is tannic and mouth-drying in so many bars, I can't find it here. There is no bitter, only in the length an ever so slight and pleasant rounding out, like in a good cup of green tea that lifts the spirit. In between the beginning and the end of the length you are greeted by sweetness. Not sugar, but sweetness. Along with nuts and coffee and the flowers comes sweet as in no 100% bar I have had. This is my chocolate, I just went out and bought twelve bars!
Being an absolute Domori fan this may seem as though I am raving about business as usual in the house of Gianluca Franzoni. I think I am pretty critical of most of their recent (and a few of their past) offerings, you be the judge. There is no chocolate out there right now for me that does what this new IL100% does. Maybe Domori's new line will hold a few more surprises, but I doubt they can beat themselves at this game. Off the bat, I would give this bar a 9.8.
Let this be a sign of more greatness to come from None. F**king amazing!