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Interesting news about Barry Callebaut
March 11, 2005
6:53 pm
Masur
Stockholm, Sweden
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The Pierre Marcolini boutique in cobblestoned Brussels is a well-known opium den for chocoholics. … This local artisanal shop gets its raw chocolate from Zurich-headquartered Barry Callebaut AG.

Barry Callebaut is on the verge of launching a polyphenol-rich chocolate that will lower your cholesterol if everything goes as planned:
[url]http://www.forbes.com/global/2005/0314/024_print.html[/url]

“Porcelana: The Holy Grail of Pure Criollos” (Maricel E. Presilla)

"Porcelana: The Holy Grail of Pure Criollos" (Maricel E. Presilla)
March 17, 2005
2:03 am
chocolatero
london
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thank you thank you thank you….
at least a few people now beleive me when I said more than a year ago that Marcolini STILL buys a significant amount of couverture from Calleabaut, Varhona and Belcolade!
not all in house made from beans, far from it…
chocolatero

March 17, 2005
5:15 am
Masur
Stockholm, Sweden
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You can find the whole story in Forbes Special Tech Report, March 14 2005 (£2.95).

“Porcelana: The Holy Grail of Pure Criollos” (Maricel E. Presilla)

"Porcelana: The Holy Grail of Pure Criollos" (Maricel E. Presilla)
March 17, 2005
3:34 pm
elektra
United Kingdom
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Interesting, Masur, especially as Pierre Marcolini is still claiming, in public, that he buys his beans himself, and pays much more than the price paid by the “big boys”, hence his high prices. I’d been buying his Fleur de Cacao, which I rate highly but think is overpriced, as I like the idea of the smaller farmers and producers getting a bigger share of the market.

BTW, I opened a bar of Marcolini’s Limited Edition Porcelana, which I’d been saving, last night, and was hugely disappointed. It’s 72%, but sooooo sweet.

Elektra

March 17, 2005
3:51 pm
Hans-Peter Rot
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Well, don’t get the wrong impression, but Marcolini has not actually lied to anyone. From what I understand, he sources his own beans, but he has not denied NOT using other couverture for his chocolates (bon bons, truffles, etc.). If you take him extremely vaguely, then he has not lied to anyone, but rather he’s being rather broad in his comments. For example, I don’t recall him saying, “Yeah, I make the chocolate from bean to bar for everything, including my bon bons, even the Manjari piece.” However, I don’t necessarily agree with this advertising technique because it is, after all, somewhat misleading.

March 17, 2005
9:52 pm
Masur
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Fleur de Cacao is unique so I can live with the high price and buy a bar now and then.

“Porcelana: The Holy Grail of Pure Criollos” (Maricel E. Presilla)

"Porcelana: The Holy Grail of Pure Criollos" (Maricel E. Presilla)
March 17, 2005
11:43 pm
ellie
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Yes, Elektra, i did find Marcolini’s very sweet, syrupy even, especially surpising of Fleur de cacao, which states 85% and tastes sweeter than all their other 70%. Though they said that sugar content about the same in all dark chocolates, regardless of cocoa content. Just got used to expecting higher cocoa content chocs taste less sweet, don’t you? Logical to look for highest cocoa % if one wants not sweet chocolate. I must confess to bouts of 99% and 100% craving.
And Chocolatero been pointing out to Marcolini using others couvertures for some time.

March 18, 2005
1:01 am
Hans-Peter Rot
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Well, I wouldn’t necessarily say that Fleur de Cacao is “sweet,” but rather it gives the impression of sweetness due to the fine and delicate nature of the beans. Furthermore, the strength of the chocolate is very subtle and mild, so much so, that the impression of a milk chocolate is successfully conveyed, imo. However, it still has a “dark” tone because it is , after all, a dark chocolate.

March 18, 2005
4:34 pm
chocolatero
london
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has any one tried the fleur de cacao from barry?
I think it is the same..
and by way, buying callebaut at less than gbp 2 per kg and reselling it in bonbons at gbp 25 for 250g whilst writing in all PR etc that you are of the few to work from the beans, i.e. implying that the premium should be deserved for the better beans and the craft.. is clearly misleading the public on purpose for profit!
in fact Pierre himself, whom my partner worked for in the past, came in our shop and when asked whether making from beans was justified from economic purpose, replied it was never the goal but always meant to be a PR tool. From the man himself.
AS much as I respect him for making some of his bars, I can not stand lies.
even the best one…recently pierre was at a trade fair in Belgium and met a friend who is also a chocolatier. Pierre told him he should be called pralinier and not chocolatier as he, unlike Pierre, was not making from beans! Amazing when one still buys “most” (as quoted in the article) of his chocolate from Callebaut, one of largest chocolate companies in the world
chocolatero

March 22, 2005
9:30 am
alex_h
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ellie, what’s this about the sugar content being about the same in all dark chocolates regardless of cocoa content? doesn’t make sense to me.

March 22, 2005
2:10 pm
ellie
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Marcolini’s man at the tasting i went to, said on authority that all their dark chocolates have about the same percentage of sugar in it, 6% he said, which also surprised me. Cocoa content of his dark bar seems to refer to couverture, then, he said, all of the bars would have added about 6% sugar and the rest made up by lecithin, vanila and some more cocoa mass. Do wonder since, frankly, how much shell i care about their process and chocolates. [:(]

March 22, 2005
2:22 pm
alex_h
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hmmm, i still don’t quite follow. i can’t imagine a bar of 85% and one of 72% each with 6% sugar and the rest vanilla and lecithin. adding cocoa mass would raise the bars level of cocoa content.

i bought a bar last week that was commissioned by a shop and the owner was all excited about it being belgian and all. he kept on about how the bar was 100% cocoa when it clearly only contained 75%. that i frankly didn’t quite understand either.

in france last year i saw many a chocolate shop with a sticker on its door praising 100% pure chocolate. (the sticker looked almost exactly like the seal on cluizel bars.) maybe they’re talking about the purity of the ingredients?

March 22, 2005
2:35 pm
ellie
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Yes, i’d say Marcolini’s dark ones taste higher then 6% sugar – though only by comparison to others, never tried to measure and mix my own. And ring true, because i do find their Fleur de cacao, stating 85% cacao, even sweeter than some of theirs Grand Crus.
And isn’t it amazing how anyone is catching up with the trend and puting high % numbers on the package, I’ve also been cought grabing some unknown bars only to find that % refers to ” Purity” or “natural” of the ingredients.

March 22, 2005
3:08 pm
chocolatero
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this 6% business is clearly wrong, obviously the man is confused, unless all choc are same cocoa content percentage
Cocoa content refers to cocoa mass+added cocoa butter
Cocoa mass itself is made of dry solids and about 45-55% of cocoa butter.
what is not called cocoa content is sugar, lechitin, vanilla etc
I guess what may be true is that most of marcolini chocolates are made from the same couverture, therefore same cocoa content…but it is far more than 6% sugar
what he may have meant also is that in the recipe of a chocolate with a centre, sugar is only 6%… which seems still quite low and one would have to specify whether that includes the sugar in the chocolate or just the added sugar to the recipe
Chocolateri

March 22, 2005
5:01 pm
Hans-Peter Rot
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Also, when you see labels that say “100% chocolate,” they might be referring to “100% pure cocoa butter,” a claim that more chocolatiers are applying to their products. I note that this use has increased since the law was passed allowing European chocolatiers to substittute a portion of cocoa butter with vegetable fats and still retain the desgination “chocolate.” It’s a marketing strategy and also a way to inform consumers that only cocoa butter was used.

March 22, 2005
11:14 pm
Sebastian
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tell you what, send me a bar, i’ll analyze it by HPLC and tell you exactly how much sugars are in it, to the 0.000% 8) catch is i get to keep the extra for myself!

By law, however, at least in most EU countries, a ‘chocolate’ can have 5% other veg fats and still legally be called chocolate, or 100% chocolate. It’s just as easy for a non-veg oil user to use that marketing tactic as it is for a veg oil user, so the differientiation is lost.

March 23, 2005
9:26 am
alex_h
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ok, now i get it (at least the 100% part). thanks much, guys.

April 14, 2005
8:34 pm
blue_bear_666
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just tried the Marcolini limited edition Porcelana and am very disappointed. It reminds me of Green & Blacks cooking chocolate. I was expecting much more.
BTW the site is excellent, I’m glad to have found it !!

April 15, 2005
5:14 am
Hans-Peter Rot
USA
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quote:


Originally posted by Sebastian

By law, however, at least in most EU countries, a ‘chocolate’ can have 5% other veg fats and still legally be called chocolate, or 100% chocolate. It’s just as easy for a non-veg oil user to use that marketing tactic as it is for a veg oil user, so the differientiation is lost.


Yes, but also according to law, it is illegal not to mention every ingredient of a certain food product regardless of its amount. In other words, “secret ingredients,” as it were, cannot be omitted from the ingredients list. Choosing to do so is risky business because you never know who’s going to evaluate your product. And if you ever see the words “hydrogenated,” “oil,” or “vegetable” in a chocolate’s ingredients list, steer clear.

April 15, 2005
5:19 am
Hans-Peter Rot
USA
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quote:


Originally posted by blue_bear_666

just tried the Marcolini limited edition Porcelana and am very disappointed. It reminds me of Green & Blacks cooking chocolate. I was expecting much more.
BTW the site is excellent, I’m glad to have found it !!


Glad you enjoy…the site, that is! Keep posting [:)] Honestly, though, Green & Black’s “cooking” chocolate is perhaps more edible than their regular chocolate. But enough on that. Back to the topic…. [:D]