Out of the very pretty, if idiosyncratic, wrapper, the chocolate looks very nice, using the same attractive mould as William Curley. As with a lot of Arribas, it’s quite dark, but the tempering has been done competently if not perfectly and swirling on the back isn’t overly pronounced. It all seems rather immaterial, though, next to the mighty aroma. Powerful waves of plum and prune rush in, then hints of floral and honey (as good Arriba should have but so rarely does), and then more full-bodied sensations of grape and earthy. Not only is it powerful, it’s remarkably balanced and displays a favourable evolution, leaving you prepared for a sensational flavour.

As it goes, though, the flavour is excellent but maybe not sensational. Initially the notes are brown sugar and cocoa, a classic Ecuador. Then something unusual hits, a powerful, unmistakeable taste of cinnamon and cream, so potent one would almost imagine it a flavoured bar. A bit disappointingly the floral hints never really materialise; the rest of the flavour is swallowed up in an earthy finish. Not a depressing, utterly flat result, but one is left wanting more. Texture is also in that same category; it’s good, but one is left wanting more at this high percentage; what should be an ultra-smooth and creamy bar has merely good melt.

But at the end of the day, if one is left wanting more, this is a good result for a very new manufacturer. It indicates there’s real potential here, and even as it is the bar is very much worth getting, probably more than once. If the Chocolate Tree are dedicated to improving their bars, we may see improvement on this chocolate. The ways to improve it here aren’t hard to spot: lower the conching time a bit, to get more distinctiveness in the flavour, and maybe very slightly reduce the roast. It’s a chocolate, though, on its way to success, and with an entry like this, there is reason to expect bean-to-bar chocolate may be here to stay in Scotland.

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In typical Friis-Holm/Bonnat fashion, the bar out of the wrapper looks awe-inspiring, if forbidding in both size, and to some extent, colour. That is, it’s on the dark side, but with an exceptional finish virtually free from imperfections and with ideal temper. The aroma is exceptionally enticing, with raspberries leading the way accompanied by woody hints, then the fruitiness shifting to raisin and grape. Treacley and earthy hints are typical of Chuno and also add power, the boldness of the overall aroma issuing the challenge to taste.

How does the flavour respond to the challenge? Surprisingly meekly. It begins with citrus, possibly a modulation of the raspberry in the aroma, and then the flavour becomes clearly chocolatey, quite neutral before shifting to a drier cocoa with hints of tobacco. Hints of red fruits (redcurrant, raspberry), woody, and treacle justify the aroma. But unusually, all this is very mild, as if a flavour “volume” knob had been turned down to a low setting on a series of exceptional flavours. A glorious evolution, but with rather little resolution.

The texture of the bar – near-perfect with an unbelievably smooth and creamy melt – almost gives away what’s going on: very high cocoa butter percentage. Friis-Holm has proven before that it’s possible to extract good flavour definition in a high cocoa butter bar, but here perhaps the combination of the ferment process and the cocoa butter gets away from him just a bit. It should be noted that the Triple Turned doesn’t seem to be affected in this way. So, inevitably, how do the two compare? Astonishingly, it’s if the bars swap roles between aroma and flavour. The aroma of the Triple Turned is reminiscent of the flavour of the Double Turned, and vice versa. One would certainly not expect this sort of result from a variation in processing. It feels, though, as though the Double Turned may be, in terms of potential, the more interesting, but the Triple Turned will probably yield more consistent results. So it’s going to be a question of batch variation versus formulation. How these develop in time will be a fascinating thing to see.

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Out of the wrapper, the large, chunky bar has an intimidating look, not just from the size but the darkish colour and somewhat matt finish. It will be said that perhaps the temper on it might be marginally improved, but it’s well within the range of well-tempered. Aroma is surprisingly retreating, soft and reminiscent of vanilla and cream, with hints of tobacco and fruits, along with molasses. Mostly it looks like the flavour will be quite mild, a definite departure from the typically assertive Chuno bean.

As it happens, the flavour isn’t so much mild as it is balanced. The initial flavour is very much dark, sugary raisin/blackberry, then there is a soft vanilla and cocoa interlude, almost like a hot chocolate, before stronger elements reassert themselves: woody and olive with hints of molasses. There’s a good flavour evolution here, with a sense that the peakiness common in single-origins has been smoothed out, so that the progression seems seamless rather than abrupt. Only in Porcelana and other pure Criollos has it heretofore been typical to find such smooth flavour progressions in a single varietal.

As per usual, Friis-Holm does a great job with the texture, as smooth and balanced as is the flavour. Maybe there is a bit too much cocoa butter to be ideal, but that certainly helps the fluidity and provides the appropriate texture for such a refined flavour. Roughness here would just be inappropriate. So how does this put the Triple Turned overall? Ultimately it stands or falls on its process. On the one hand, this is an excellent and accessible chocolate, which will appeal to a wide audience while having enough distinctive character to be convincingly interesting. On the other, it feels as though still better interpretations of the Chuno bean lurk: somehow with the right combination of processes the sense is that something truly extraordinary might result. It doesn’t have that sort of electric appeal, not yet. But regardless of that, it sets a standard for a new way of looking at chocolate, as a total process. Considered as half of a matching pair with the Double Turned, it’s a chocolate that proclaims powerfully that there is no one “canonical” process that can be seen as the only appropriate way of creating a chocolate, rather, there is a spectrum of possibilities, with different outcomes, each of which deserves to find expression.

The post Friis-Holm – Chuno Triple Turned appeared first on Seventy%.

The post Friis-Holm – Chuno Triple Turned appeared first on Seventy%.

Chapon goes for a very polished style in the visuals, quite literally, the bar having the high sheen of the smooth-faced mould. An almost complete lack of moulding defects, and again, that sheen, indicate impressive handling, although the bar is worrisomely darker than typical for the source. However, the aroma is so archetypal of the source as to be a reference standard, immediately bursting out in redcurrant and blueberry, then moving to dark liquorice and wood, with some interesting hints of floral and honey that put it that step above all other Chuao interpretations. It’s hard to imagine an aroma much better or more characteristic than this.

But where the aroma compels tasting, as it turns out, the flavour is much more basic. Initially it begins with fairly generic creamy and chocolatey, before clear signs of strong, heavy roast turn up as the flavour evolves to cocoa and then to coffee, with some hints of ashiness in there as well. Fruity hints do emerge, mostly of a dark blueberryish variety, but on the whole it’s the roast that dominates, unfortunately erasing most of the notes so prominent in the aroma. Not that the flavour is bad per se, but still, a real pity.

It’s really too bad that the flavour speaks of heavy-handedness too, for the texture is at the peak of perfection, impossibly smooth and creamy and completely remaining true to the visual impression. It’s a bar that, to judge from the aroma, could have been the best ever, but for the roast. If it weren’t so aggressive, and if the flavour could have retained the elements so obvious in the aroma, this chocolate would have been very close to getting the unimaginable, a perfect score. But as it is, it turns out to be another worthy and interesting interpretation of the Chuao origin, but no more than that, something worthwhile to try but something that needs a bit of tinkering

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Rather dark roast is evident immediately upon removing the bar from the wrapper, with its very dark colour, although a dark red-brown rather than a dark purple-brown. Finish is very close to immaculate, even the back side of the bar showing only hints of where a few bubbles might have formed. It has the clean look of a chocolate processed to precision standards.

The aroma is all about blunt force, dense and saturated, with liquorice and raisin prominent in the beginning, then coffee, before very iron notes appear, molasses and even meaty. There’s impressive control despite the power, even if the aroma is quite one-sided in overall characteristics, but this is going to be a bar that explores the extremes of a flavour rather than one that tries to harmonise all flavours. Still, it’s the strength that leaves the lingering impression, and almost gives a sense of trepidation to tasting.

Interestingly, the flavour actually starts out lighter and brighter, with blackberry leading, then raisin. Powerful, yes, but not yet heavy. An interlude follows with a hint of mushroom overlaid on what is a very clean, pure chocolatey flavour, and then the mighty notes of the aroma pound in. Liquorice, coffee, and molasses all pour down in waves, although bizarrely there is somehow room for a slight grassy hint to materialise. But still, this bar is mostly about that powerful, long-lasting finish that never becomes flat or tiresome but just keeps sweeping over you. Texture, meanwhile, is good if workmanlike, smooth, perhaps a bit dry, nothing particularly to get excited about.

It’s that flavour that’s exciting. To this reviewer, at least, flavours in the dark, treacley domain are his favourite within the chocolate spectrum, and with such good exposition, Ocumare 72% will inevitably be received favourably. Others might not be so impressed – time will tell – but here is a bar that’s making a strong statement. It’s exciting to see chocolate makers experiment with extremes of flavour rather than go for a balanced but perhaps unoriginal version, and this bar vindicates Red Star’s patient approach to process. Equally, though, it establishes Duffy’s strength: in powerful, distinctive origins such as this, or the Indio Rojo – this is where he might focus, leaving milder, more retreating beans to a different group. A first-rate job and a good way to introduce a new season of chocolates.

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Strangely, the box description doesn’t inspire confidence, the flavour notes seeming reminiscent of bulk-grade Ghana or some of the more basic Ecuador origins. Nor does the appearance particularly improve matters; tempering is somewhat uneven and the colour comes dangerously close to the Dark Side. However, the aroma is like nothing else, initially familiar but very encouraging raspberry mixed with raisin, but then developing an outstanding floral, lilac note and also hints of grassiness. It’s a very elusive aroma that seems hard to capture or quantify adequately, but it certainly compels immediate tasting.

The flavour turns out to be prevailingly fruity and rather sour, initially redcurrant, then more citrus. But at almost the opposite extreme, deep molasses flavours emerge, and the end moves into a much more roasty territory with notes of coffee and biscuit. On their own these finish qualities might suggest overroasting, but taken in context, they merely add balance to what is a most exciting flavour evolution, and it must be said that Ritual is exploring the ultra-fruity corner of the process in a way that seemed to have fallen out of fashion amongst chocolate-makers in the past few years. It’s refreshing (literally) to see this style return.

Melt, meanwhile, is up to snuff, being both smooth and creamy. The snap is particularly assertive; presumably the hinted-at tempering inconsistencies are superficial. Indeed, only superficial flaws, generally, appear in this chocolate, which really is a first-rate achivement for a young company. The way they have brought out the fruity elements of their source is more complete than has been seen for years (probably since some of the earlier Amano chocolates). It is to be hoped that Ritual continues to develop this style; they have the potential to become the standard-bearers for light, fruity chocolates. In the meanwhile, here is a bar to enjoy while the time is ripe; at this level of quality, it won’t be around for long.

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From the moment this bar is out of the wrapper, it can’t be mistaken, with its colour so light it could easily be a middle-strength milk bar. Pacari hasn’t produced an immaculate finish here; the bar does look a bit rustic in overall appearance, but it will still produce more admiring glances than it will frowns. The aroma is certainly more powerful than the colour would suggest, and with a definitely spicy character, cinnamon and cedar with wine, so that it’s almost like a mulled wine overall. Hints of earthy and coffee strike a heavier note, but hints of strawberry also give a lighter note as well, so that the indications are that this should have a very balanced flavour indeed.

The flavour itself, however, is a bit of a disappointment, if also a total surprise. First comes a totally overwhelming note of crème fraîche, rather reminiscent of older Domoris but slightly flatter.A brief raisin hint has more depth and then the flavour becomes more pungent, cedar and cinnamon more in tune with the aroma. A more tannic woody finish is disturbing, however, the length of the flavour is completely extraordinary, especially given the start, continuing to manifest a fruity wood like old wine barrels.

The melt is somewhat problematic, for although there’s nothing wrong with the smooth particle size, its drier than one might like and as a result reluctant to melt completely; here is a bar that could really do with more cocoa butter. That, however, is the only true technical flaw in what is otherwise a very nice chocolate. Taken as a whole this bar will probably appeal strongly to those looking for something new and very different in chocolate, and those who place a high value on originality. For the classicist, however, it will represent a bit too much of a surprise to be great; like a Mondrian compared to a Raphael. What Piura really might be is the ultimate in concept chocolate.

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Out of the wrapper, the chocolate doesn’t yet hint at its greatness if one is to judge on appearance, although it certainly doesn’t look bad. A terra-cotta colour not too dissimilar from some very light Madagascans is certainly considerably darker and more pleasant that many pale milk chocolates, and the moulding is clean and well-done, if not specifically beautiful. However, appearance seems entirely beside the point, for the moment the wrapper is opened an intense fruity flood flows out in the aroma, smelling of fresh strawberries. Indeed, there is a fruit-and-nut play going on here, as hazelnuts are next revealed before darker hints of coffee and woody bring balance. A buttery hint at the end reassures that this is a milk chocolate, from its intensity and depth one would think it a dark.

The flavour confirms and indeed surpasses the aroma, starting out with a rich mix of raspberry and raisin, just as it says on the label, before moving into hazelnut. The evolution next reaches a mild, mocha/coffee point with hints of smooth woods, before a wave of milk and cream arrives – and not just any milk, but rather the lovely fresh dairy that was the hallmark of the days when we still had bottles delivered to our doors. Hints of treacle and even a little spice appear in a finish that doesn’t want to end, completing a flavour circle of incredible balance. Everything is in such intensity and clear resolution that it could almost be a fine dark chocolate, and with such a clean exposition this flavour must be considered the perfect milk chocolate.

Although with this fine of a flavour the texture is almost beside the point – it could be truly rough and not seriously detract – in truth the melt doesn’t let the side down either, very smooth and creamy in a way that lets you focus entirely on that magnificent flavour. Never has a milk chocolate so completely exposed its underlying beans while remaining true to the milk chocolate genre; it won’t be mistaken as such for a dark chocolate but it has all the flavour characteristics one would expect of one. Here is a chocolate for the ages, a reference standard for years to come on the heights milk chocolate can achieve, and a decisive argument that milk chocolate shouldn’t be considered the poor cousin of dark.

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