• Our rating: 89.8% (1 review)
  • Company:
  • Cacao solids: 70%
  • Guide Price: £3.00
  • Description by: Alex Rast
  • Production: Produced directly from beans by maker
  • Certification:
    • None
  • Ingredients:
    • cocoa mass, cocoa butter, raw cane sugar, salt

The cocoa for this dark chocolate originates from the legendary region Amazonia. It is the largest rainforest area of our planet. It is of great importance to protect this area as far as possible. For this reason we use organic cocoa which supports the diversity of species and furthermore benefits from the excellent soil quality. This chocolate from Amazonia which is mildly roasted, slowly rolled, and intensely conched for 32-34 hours is characterized by a tender melt.

Zotter – Brazil 70% (Amazonia)—Chocolate Review Rating: 89.8% out of 100 based on 1 reviews.

Zotter – Brazil 70% (Amazonia)

One part of a pair of chocolates in the same package, both from a Brazil origin but different sources. Zotter’s decision to use different percentages somewhat obscures the comparison, but it’s interesting nonetheless. In each of the “Labooko” series Zotter appears to pair a “fine” origin with an “emerging” one. This one appears to be positioned as the “emerging” one of the series. Whether a product of cultivation can qualify as “protecting” the “largest rainforest area” is perhaps open to debate, but at least cocoa is native to the Brazilian rainforest, and surely the production here must be a far cry from more brutal large-scale agricultural practices. Nonetheless, while ethical defensibility may increase the sense of pleasure in such a bar, ultimately the proof is in the flavour.

Reviews

Alex Rast: 8-Oct-2010

Posted: October 8, 2010 by
SCORES Score/10 Weight
Aroma: 10%
Look/snap: 5%
Taste: 35%
Melt: 5%
Length: 15%
Opinion: 30%
Total/100: 100%
INFO
Best before:
Batch num:
Source:
Supplied by:

Zotter may have positioned this chocolate as an “emerging” origin, but if it’s emerging, it must be said to be doing so fully-formed. This is quite simply a superb Brazilian chocolate from a country more frequently associated with cheap bulk chocolate. Zotter, of course, must get much of the credit for this – both for expert sourcing and for expert handling. A perfect chocolate for those who like theirs bold and unusual, with very different flavour progressions from what one usually sees. An authoritative demonstration of how a potentially difficult origin, properly handled, can yield brilliant results.

Unsurprising the bar looks very dark indeed outside its wrapper, indicating probable Forastero origins yet not at the level of ebony-black that one sees often indicating likewise brutal roast. Finish is very nice indeed, as per Zotter’s norm – scarcely any trace of bubbling, swirling, or other obvious imperfections. The aroma, however, is what demands immediate attention: this is one of the most intense aromas in any chocolate. It has a powerful winey note to it mixed with molasses and liquorice, indication of good ferment. Some earthy hints leave little doubt as to its Forastero character, but here they add interest and variety, not dullness. One is certainly prepared to expect a powerful wallop of a bar.

Confounding all expectations, however, the flavour proves remarkably subtle. Initial tropical notes, mango and banana, seem more in line with a Venezuelan Criollo, and then the flavour becomes almost pure chocolatey, almost ideally timed to sustain interest. Next come smoky and coconut hints, never aggressive, never flat, just a gentle reminder of the origin. These flavours in fact demonstrate that, interpreted well and with subtlety, such components need not be negatives. Just when one assumes the flavour is finished, a sudden and delightful hint of honey surprises in the aftertaste, maintaining the flavour long after the chocolate is gone from the mouth. In terms of length of flavour development, it must be said, this bar rivals or even beats most fine Criollos.

Texture is equally superb, both impressively smooth and nicely creamy, as hinted at in the blurb on the package. This is a bar that will leave lingering impressions no matter what the sensory experience desired. The aroma is memorable for its intensity, the flavour for its length, the texture for its subtlety. Zotter has managed to bring the pieces all together here in a magnificent interpretation. Maybe this is a new and still developing origin – if so the glories of future years may truly be a wonder to behold! In the meanwhile, this is a chocolate to enjoy thoroughly in the here and now.

Leave a comment